Vintage Yema Watches

Yema: The Watchmaker of French Heroes

The history of Yema begins in 1948, when Henry-Louis Belmont — graduated first in his class from the National School of Watchmaking in Besançon in 1931 — founded his manufacture in the cradle of française watchmaking. Belmont is a pioneer of watchmaking automation in France: as early as 1951, he equipped most of his watches with the automatic movement Lorsa 237B, which he renamed Yema 231A. His strategy was clear from the start: technical watches designed for professionals — divers, pilots, racers, sailors.

The 60s and 70s are the golden age of Yema. In 1963, the Superman was launched — a diving watch waterproof to 300 meters, quickly adopted by the French Navy and the Air Force française. In 1967, the Rallygraf appeared — a sports chronograph that accompanied racing drivers on the tracks. In 1970, the Flygraf was presented at the Micronora fair in Besançon — an aviation chronograph with a slide rule bezel, awarded for its innovation. Yema became the largest French watch exporter for three consecutive years — over 500,000 watches sold in about fifty countries.

On June 24, 1982, astronaut Jean-Loup Chrétien took off from Baikonur for a 10-day mission in space. On his wrist: the Yema Spationaute I — the first Western European watch worn in space. In 1985, Patrick Baudry took the Spationaute II aboard the Discovery shuttle. In 1988, Jean-Loup Chrétien returned to space with the Spationaute III (equipped with a Seiko 7A38 caliber) to join the MIR station. These space missions were carried out in partnership with the CNES (National Center for Space Studies).

The quartz crisis and the restructurings of the 80s weakened Yema. The brand joined Matra Horlogerie, where a certain Richard Mille (future founder of the haute horlogerie brand of the same name) was responsible for international development. In 1986, Seiko acquired Yema — the brand was managed from Japan until 2004. This period under Japanese management influenced the design of certain models (the Superman II borrowed aesthetic codes Seiko). In 2017, William Germain takes the reins and repositions Yema on its fundamentals: technical watches, French heritage, manufacture in Morteau (Jura). Yema now produces its own manufacture calibers (CMM.10, CMM.20, CMM.30).

The Yema Vintage Collections in Detail

Superman: The Reference French Diver

The Yema Superman, launched in 1963, is the most collected diving watch by française. Water resistance 300 meters, luminescent black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel. What sets the Superman apart from all other vintage divers: the "bezel-lock" system — a mechanism patented by Yema that allows the rotating bezel to be locked via the winding crown. In the screwed position, the crown locks the bezel, preventing any accidental misalignment underwater. This is a functional security feature not found on any other diving watch of the era — and justified the adoption of the Superman by the Marine Nationale française.

The vintage Supermans come in several generations: the first series from the 60s (stainless steel case, "leaf" or "sword" hands, automatic FE calibers — France Ébauches), the models from the 70s (colored dials, cushion cases for some variants), and the Superman II from the 80s-90s (Seiko influence in design). The first series Supermans with original dial and hands are the most sought-after — prices have significantly increased in recent years. The Supermans from the 70s-80s remain more accessible (often 400-800 €).

Rallygraf: The Circuit Chronograph

The Yema Rallygraf, launched in 1967, is the sports chronograph by Yema — designed for car racing enthusiasts. Two-tone "Panda" dials (white with black sub-dials) or "Reverse Panda" (black with white sub-dials), tachymetric scale, hand-wound chronograph movement. The "Brown Sugar" version (brown dial, beige sub-dials) from 1974 is the most sought-after variant by collectors.

The most common movements on vintage Rallygraf: Valjoux 7733 (hand-wound, cam, two sub-dials), Valjoux 7736 (hand-wound, three sub-dials), and some automatic movements on later versions. The race car driver Mario Andretti, winner of the Indianapolis 500 in 1969, stated he wore a Rallygraf "throughout May 1969 — for testing, qualifying, and during the race itself". Vintage Rallygrafs with Valjoux caliber are traded between 500 and 2,000 € depending on the reference and condition.

Yachtingraf: The Regatta Chronograph

The Yema Yachtingraf, produced from 1966, is a regatta chronograph — a rare technical complication in watchmaking. The Yachtingraf includes a regatta countdown: a system of rotating discs or sub-dials for counting down the minutes before the start of a sailing race. Yema became the official supplier to the French Sailing Federation in 1970 and later the official timekeeper of the Route du Rhum. The vintage Yachtingraf with countdown window are the most sought-after by collectors — rare and distinctive technical pieces.

Flygraf: The Pilot's Instrument

The Yema Flygraf, launched in 1970, is the aviation chronograph by Yema — equipped with a slide rule bezel in two parts (one fixed, one rotating) allowing for navigation calculations (speed, distance, consumption, unit conversions). Black dial, luminescent Arabic numerals, maximum readability. The Flygraf is adopted by the French Air Force française. It is presented at the Micronora fair in Besançon where it receives several awards for its innovation. Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement on automatic versions. The vintage Flygraf are authentic French pilot's watches — not tributes, real instruments worn by pilots.

Navygraf: The Military Diver

The Yema Navygraf is a robust diving watch developed for the underwater missions of the French Navy. Graduated rotating bezel, high readability specific indexes, reinforced case. The Navygraf complements the Superman in the Yema dive catalog — more sober and military in its aesthetic. The vintage Navygraf from the 70s-80s are accessible alternatives to the Superman.

Spationaute: The French Space Watch

The Yema Spationaute are the watches that accompanied French astronauts in space — in partnership with CNES. The Spationaute I (Jean-Loup Chrétien, 1982) is the first Western European watch worn in space. The Spationaute II (Patrick Baudry, Discovery shuttle, 1985) participates in the first Franco-American orbital flight. The Spationaute III (Jean-Loup Chrétien, MIR station, 1988) is equipped with a Seiko 7A38 caliber. The vintage Spationaute are sought-after collector's pieces for their historical significance — comparable, in their dimension, to the Omega Speedmaster of NASA.

Meangraf & Sous-Marine

The Yema Meangraf is a sporty chronograph from the 70s with bold designs — colorful dials, shaped cases, typical aesthetic of the decade. The Sous-Marine watches by Yema are compact divers, accessible alternatives to the Superman. These models offer the Yema character at very affordable pre-owned prices.

The Movements of the Vintage Yema

• France Ébauches (FE) — French automatic movements produced in Besançon. The FE 4611, FE 5611 calibers and their variants equip many vintage Yema (Superman, automatic watches). Robust, reliable, designed for the field. Spare parts still available.
• Valjoux 7733 — Swiss hand-wound chronograph, cam, two sub-dials. The most common movement on vintage Rallygraf and Yema chronographs. Reliable, easy to maintain, accessible.
• Valjoux 7736 — Swiss hand-wound chronograph, cam, three sub-dials (with 12-hour totalizer). More complete version of the 7733. Used on some Rallygraf and Yachtingraf.
• Valjoux 7750 — Swiss automatic chronograph. Used on the Flygraf and Yema automatic chronographs. The most widespread automatic chronograph movement in the industry.
• Seiko 7A38 — analog quartz chronograph movement. Used on Yema from the Seiko period (1986-2004), notably the Spationaute III. A quality quartz movement produced by Seiko.

Yema vs LIP: The Two Pillars of French Watchmaking

The two major brands of vintage française watchmaking embody two distinct philosophies. LIP (Besançon, founded in 1867) is the brand of classic française elegance — dress watches (Himalaya, Dauphine), design watches (Mach 2000 by Roger Tallon), watches gifted to the presidents of the Republic. Yema (Besançon, founded in 1948) is the brand of adventure and technical performance — diving watches (Superman), sports chronographs (Rallygraf, Yachtingraf), aviation watches (Flygraf), space watches (Spationaute). LIP whispers, Yema asserts. Both are complementary in a vintage française watch collection.

Yema Superman vs Rolex Submariner: The Comparison

The comparison frequently arises among collectors. Both are professional diving watches with authentic pedigree. The Rolex Submariner is the most prestigious and sought-after diving watch in the world — a status watch as much as an instrument. The Yema Superman is a military française diving watch with field legitimacy (Marine Nationale, Air Force) — an instrument before being a status symbol. The bezel-lock system of the Superman is a functional innovation that the Submariner does not possess. In terms of vintage pricing, the comparison is clear: a vintage Superman often trades for 5 to 10 times less than a Submariner of the same era. This is what makes the Superman interesting: a true professional diving watch at an accessible price.

The Richard Mille Case

A little-known fact of Yema history: in the 1980s, when Yema joined Matra Horlogerie, the head of international development was a young man named Richard Mille. Yes, the same Richard Mille who would later found the ultra-contemporary haute horlogerie watch brand bearing his name — watches now among the most expensive in the world. Mille cut his teeth in the watch industry at Yema. It's a historical detail that illustrates the network and influence of the Besançon brand in française watchmaking.

How to Recognize an Authentic Vintage Yema

• Yema Logo — the stylized "Y" and the text "Yema" on the dial. The typography and the logo shape has evolved over the decades — a dating indicator.
• Marking "France" or "Made in France" — authentic vintage Yema feature this on the dial (at the bottom). Beware of watches marked "France" but with a post-USSR Asian movement — a sign of recent assembly.
• Superman bezel-block — on authentic Superman watches, the bezel locking by the crown must function correctly. It is a criterion of authenticity and good mechanical condition.
• Original dial — typography consistent with the period, coherent luminescent material (radium then tritium depending on the era), "Automatic" mention or caliber number on certain models.
• Movement — France Ébauches on the Superman and automatics, Valjoux on the chronographs. A non-compliant Asian movement in a vintage case is a red flag.

At Atelier Victor, each Yema is opened, inspected, and authenticated by our watchmakers. Bezel block, movement, dial, and case are verified. Lifetime authenticity guarantee.

---

Frequently Asked Questions — Vintage Yema Watches

What is the "bezel block" system of the Superman?

The bezel block is a patented mechanism by Yema that allows locking the rotating bezel via the crown. When the crown is in the screwed position, the bezel is locked — impossible to accidentally misadjust it underwater. It is a unique functional security to Yema, which justified the adoption of the Superman by the French Navy.

Who is Henry-Louis Belmont?

Henry-Louis Belmont (1911-?) is the founder of Yema — graduated first in his class from the École Nationale d'Horlogerie de Besançon in 1931. He founded Yema in 1948 with the ambition to create technical French watches for professionals. His son Henry-John Belmont succeeded him at the head of the brand. Belmont is considered a pioneer of automation in the watchmaking industry française.

Has the Yema Spationaute really been to space?

Yes, three times. The Spationaute I accompanied Jean-Loup Chrétien on June 24, 1982 — the first Western European watch in space. The Spationaute II flew with Patrick Baudry on the Discovery shuttle in 1985. The Spationaute III joined the MIR station with Jean-Loup Chrétien in 1988. These missions were carried out in partnership with the CNES. It is the French equivalent of the NASA-Omega relationship.

What is the connection between Yema and Seiko?

In 1986, Seiko (via Hattori-Seiko Co Ltd) acquired Yema by purchasing the shares of Matra Horlogerie. The brand was managed from Japan from 1986 to 2004. During this period, certain Yema models (like the Superman II) adopted Seiko aesthetic codes, and Seiko calibers (7A38 on the Spationaute III) were integrated into some watches. In 2004, Yema became française again.

What is the connection between Yema and Richard Mille?

Richard Mille — the founder of the haute horlogerie brand that bears his name — began his career in the watchmaking industry at Yema in the 1980s, when the brand was part of Matra Horlogerie. He was responsible for international development. It is a historical fact that illustrates the network and the importance of Yema in watchmaking française.

What is the Yachtingraf and why is it sought after?

The Yachtingraf is a regatta chronograph — a watch with a countdown integrated allowing the countdown of minutes before the start of a sailing race. It's a rare technical complication in watchmaking. Yema was the official supplier of the French Sailing Federation and the timekeeper of the Route du Rhum. The vintage Yachtingraf with countdown aperture are sought-after technical pieces.

What movements are found in vintage Yema?

Two main families: the France Ébauches (FE) — French automatic movements, used in the Superman and the automatic watches Yema — and the Swiss Valjoux — calibers 7733 (manual winding chronograph, two counters), 7736 (three counters), and 7750 (automatic chronograph), used in the Rallygraf, Yachtingraf, and Flygraf. Both are robust movements and easy to maintain.

How to distinguish a first series Superman from a Superman of the 80s?

Several clues: the dial (first series: matte black dial, "leaf" or "sword" hands, "Superman" marking in fine characters; 80s: sometimes colored dials, influence of Seiko in the design), the movement (first series: France Ébauches; Seiko period: Seiko or Miyota calibers), the case shape (first series: classic round case; some 70s variants: cushion case), and the bezel block (present on authentic diving models).

Is the Yema Superman a good alternative to the Submariner?

Both are authentic professional diving watches. The Submariner is more prestigious, more valued, and benefits from Rolex's notoriety. The Superman offers military legitimacy française (Marine Nationale, Air Force), a unique mechanism (bezel block), and a vintage price 5 to 10 times lower. It's the instrument vs the status — two different propositions.

Do vintage Yema increase in value?

At Atelier Victor, we approach watchmaking from the perspective of pleasure buying. If the first series Superman, the Rallygraf "Brown Sugar", the Yachtingraf with aperture, and the Spationaute have seen their demand evolve favorably — driven by the brand's revival and growing interest in française watchmaking — we guide our clients towards pieces that match their aesthetic and mechanical criteria, without making financial recommendations.

Where to find a bracelet for a vintage Yema?

Atelier Victor offers watch straps compatible — in leather (calf, perforated racing), steel, rubber, and NATO. The most common lug sizes on vintage Yema: 18 mm (Rallygraf, chronographs), 20 mm (Superman, Navygraf). NATO straps and type diving rubber straps are particularly suited to the Superman. Contact us via WhatsApp.

Discover our other watchmaking collections française: LIP vintage. And our vintage chronographs: complete collection of chronographs, Omega Speedmaster, Breitling Navitimer. By budget: -500 € · 500-1,000 €.

A question about a Yema vintage watch? Contact us via WhatsApp or by email.