Guide to Vintage & Pre-Owned Watches Yema

Yema: The Watchmaker of French Heroes

The story of Yema begins in 1948, when Henry-Louis Belmont — graduating top of his class from the École Nationale d'Horlogerie de Besançon in 1931 — founded his manufacture in the cradle of française watchmaking. Belmont was a pioneer of watchmaking automation in France: as early as 1951, he equipped most of his watches with the automatic Lorsa 237B movement, which he renamed Yema 231A. His strategy was clear from the outset: technical watches designed for professionals — divers, pilots, racers, sailors.

The 1960s and 1970s were the golden age of Yema. In 1963, the Superman was launched — a diving watch water-resistant to 300 metres, quickly adopted by the French Navy and the française Air Force. In 1967, the Rallygraf appeared — a sporty chronograph that accompanied racing drivers on the track. In 1970, the Flygraf was presented at the Micronora trade fair in Besançon — an aviation chronograph with a slide rule bezel, awarded for its innovation. Yema became the largest French exporter of watches for three consecutive years — more than 500,000 watches sold in around fifty countries.

On 24 June 1982, astronaut Jean-Loup Chrétien lifted off from Baikonur for a 10-day mission in space. On his wrist: the Yema Spationaute I — the first Western European watch worn in space. In 1985, Patrick Baudry took the Spationaute II aboard the Discovery shuttle. In 1988, Jean-Loup Chrétien returned to space with the Spationaute III (equipped with a Seiko 7A38 calibre) to join the MIR station. These space missions were carried out in partnership with the CNES (National Centre for Space Studies).

The quartz crisis and the restructurings of the 1980s weakened Yema. The brand joined Matra Horlogerie, where a certain Richard Mille (future founder of the eponymous high watchmaking brand) was head of international development. In 1986, Seiko acquired Yema — the brand was managed from Japan until 2004. This period under Japanese leadership influenced the design of certain models (the Superman II borrowed Seiko aesthetic codes). In 2017, William Germain takes the reins and refocuses Yema on its fundamentals: technical watches, French heritage, manufacture in Morteau (Jura). Yema now produces its own in-house manufacture calibres (CMM.10, CMM.20, CMM.30).

The Yema Vintage Collections in Detail

Superman: The Benchmark French Dive Watch

The Yema Superman, launched in 1963, is the most collected française dive watch. 300 metres water resistance, luminous black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel. What sets the Superman apart from all other vintage dive watches: the "bezel-lock system" — a mechanism patented by Yema that allows the rotating bezel to be locked via the winding crown. In the screwed-down position, the crown locks the bezel, preventing any accidental misadjustment underwater. It is a functional safety feature found on no other dive watch of the period — and one that justified the adoption of the Superman by the française Navy.

Vintage Supermans come in several generations: the first series from the 1960s (steel case, "leaf" or "sword" hands, FE automatic calibres — France Ébauches), the models from the 1970s (coloured dials, cushion cases for certain variants) and the Superman II from the 1980s-90s (Seiko influence in the design). The first-series Superman models with original dial and hands are the most sought-after — prices have risen significantly in recent years. Superman models from the 1970s-80s remain more accessible (often €400-800).

Rallygraf: The Racing Circuit Chronograph

The Yema Rallygraf, launched in 1967, is Yema’s sporting chronograph — designed for motor racing enthusiasts. Two-tone "Panda" dials (white with black sub-dials) or "Reverse Panda" (black with white sub-dials), tachymeter scale, hand-wound chronograph movement. The "Brown Sugar" version (brown dial, beige sub-dials) from 1974 is the variant most sought-after by collectors.

The most common movements found in vintage Rallygraf models: Valjoux 7733 (hand-wound, cam-actuated, two sub-dials), Valjoux 7736 (hand-wound, three sub-dials) and certain automatic movements on later versions. Racing driver Mario Andretti, winner of the 1969 Indianapolis 500, stated that he wore a Rallygraf "throughout the entire month of May 1969 — for practice, qualifying and during the race itself". Vintage Rallygraf models with Valjoux calibres trade between €500 and €2,000 depending on the reference and condition.

Yachtingraf: The Regatta Chronograph

The Yema Yachtingraf, produced from 1966 onward, is a regatta chronograph — a technical complication rarely seen in watchmaking. The Yachtingraf features a regatta countdown: a system of rotating discs or sub-dials used to count down the minutes before the start of a sailing race. Yema became in 1970 the official supplier to the French Sailing Federation and later the official timekeeper of the Route du Rhum . Vintage Yachtingraf watches with countdown window are the most sought-after by collectors — rare and distinctive technical pieces.

Flygraf: The Pilots' Instrument

The Yema Flygraf, launched in 1970, is the aviation chronograph of Yema — equipped with a two-part slide rule bezel (one fixed, one rotating) enabling navigation calculations (speed, distance, consumption, unit conversions). Black dial, luminous Arabic numerals, maximum legibility. The Flygraf was adopted by the française Air Force. It was presented at the Micronora trade fair in Besançon, where it received several awards for its innovation. Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement on the automatic versions. Vintage Flygraf watches are authentic French pilot's watches — not tributes, but true instruments worn by pilots.

Navygraf: The Military Dive Watch

The Yema Navygraf is a robust dive watch developed for the underwater missions of the French Navy. Graduated rotating bezel, specific high-legibility markers, reinforced case. The Navygraf complements the Superman in the Yema diving catalog — more understated and more military in its aesthetic. Vintage Navygraf watches from the 1970s and 1980s are accessible alternatives to the Superman.

Spationaute: The French Space Watch

The Yema Spationaute watches are the timepieces that accompanied French astronauts into space — in partnership with CNES. The Spationaute I (Jean-Loup Chrétien, 1982) is the first Western European watch worn in space. The Spationaute II (Patrick Baudry, Discovery shuttle, 1985) took part in the first Franco-American orbital flight. The Spationaute III (Jean-Loup Chrétien, MIR station, 1988) is equipped with a Seiko 7A38 caliber. Vintage Spationaute watches are sought-after collectors' pieces for their historical importance — comparable, in significance, to the Omega Speedmaster of NASA.

Meangraf & Sous-Marine

The Yema Meangraf is a sporty 1970s chronograph with bold designs — colorful dials, shaped cases, an aesthetic typical of the decade. The Sous-Marine watches by Yema are compact dive watches, accessible alternatives to the Superman. These models offer Yema character at very modest pre-owned prices.

The Movements of Vintage Yema Watches

• France Ébauches (FE) — French automatic movements produced in Besançon. FE 4611, FE 5611 calibers and their variants equip many vintage Yema watches (Superman, automatic watches). Robust, designed for the field.
• Valjoux 7733 — Swiss hand-wound chronograph, cam-operated, two sub-dials. The most common movement in vintage Rallygraf and Yema chronographs. Reliable, easy to maintain, accessible.
• Valjoux 7736 — Swiss hand-wound chronograph, cam-operated, three sub-dials (with 12-hour counter). A more complete version of the 7733. Used in certain Rallygraf and Yachtingraf models.
• Valjoux 7750 — Swiss automatic chronograph. Used in Flygraf and automatic Yema chronographs. The most widespread automatic chronograph movement in the industry.
• Seiko 7A38 — analog quartz chronograph movement. Used on the Yema of the Seiko period (1986-2004), notably the Spationaute III. A quality quartz movement, produced by Seiko.

Yema vs LIP: The Two Pillars of French Watchmaking

The two great vintage française watchmaking brands embody two distinct philosophies. LIP (Besançon, founded in 1867) is the brand of classic française elegance — dress watches (Himalaya, Dauphine), design watches (Mach 2000 by Roger Tallon), watches presented to Presidents of the Republic. Yema (Besançon, founded in 1948) is the brand of adventure and technical performance — diving watches (Superman), sporting chronographs (Rallygraf, Yachtingraf), aviation watches (Flygraf), space watches (Spationaute). LIP whispers, Yema asserts itself. Both are complementary in a collection of vintage française watchmaking.

Yema Superman vs Rolex Submariner: The Comparison

The comparison comes up frequently among collectors. Both are professional diving watches with authentic pedigree. The Rolex Submariner is the most sought-after diving watch in the world — as much a status watch as an instrument. The Yema Superman is a française military diving watch with real field legitimacy (French Navy, Air Force) — an instrument before it is a status symbol. The Superman’s bezel-lock system is a functional innovation that the Submariner does not have. In terms of vintage price, the comparison is unequivocal: a vintage Superman often trades for 5 to 10 times less than a Submariner from the same period. That is what makes the Superman interesting: a true professional diving watch at an accessible price.

The Richard Mille Case

A little-known fact in the history of Yema: in the 1980s, when Yema joined Matra Horlogerie, the head of international development was a young man named Richard Mille. Yes, the very same Richard Mille who would later found the ultra-contemporary high watchmaking brand bearing his name — watches that are now among the most expensive in the world. Mille got his start in the watch industry at Yema. It is a historical detail that illustrates the network and influence of the Besançon brand in française watchmaking.

How to Recognize an Authentic Vintage Yema

• Yema logo — the stylized "Y" and the text "Yema" on the dial. The typography and shape of the logo have evolved over the decades — an indicator for dating.
• "France" or "Made in France" marking — authentic vintage Yema bear this wording on the dial (at the bottom). Beware of watches bearing "France" but fitted with a post-USSR Asian movement — a sign of recent assembly.
• Superman bezel-lock — on authentic Superman models, the bezel locking by the crown must function properly. It is a criterion of authenticity and sound mechanical condition.
• Original dial — period-correct typography, consistent luminous material (radium, then tritium depending on the era), the mention "Automatic" or calibre number on certain models.
• Movement — France Ébauches on the Superman models and automatics, Valjoux on the chronographs. A non-conforming Asian movement in a vintage case is a warning sign.

At Atelier Victor, each Yema is opened, inspected and authenticated by our watchmakers. The bezel-lock mechanism, movement, dial and case are checked. Authenticity guaranteed for life.

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Frequently Asked Questions — Vintage Yema Watches

What is the Superman's "bezel-lock mechanism" system?

The bezel-lock mechanism is a mechanism patented by Yema that allows the rotating bezel to be locked via the crown. When the crown is in the screwed-down position, the bezel is locked — impossible to knock it out of adjustment accidentally underwater. It is a functional safety feature unique to Yema, which justified the adoption of the Superman by the French Navy.

Who is Henry-Louis Belmont?

Henry-Louis Belmont (1911-?) is the founder of Yema — graduating top of his class from the École Nationale d'Horlogerie de Besançon in 1931. He founded Yema in 1948 with the ambition of creating French technical watches for professionals. His son, Henry-John Belmont, succeeded him at the head of the brand. Belmont is regarded as a pioneer of automation in the française watchmaking industry.

Did the Yema Spationaute really go into space?

Yes, three times. The Spationaute I accompanied Jean-Loup Chrétien on June 24, 1982 — the first watch from Western Europe in space. The Spationaute II flew with Patrick Baudry aboard the Discovery shuttle in 1985. The Spationaute III joined the MIR station with Jean-Loup Chrétien in 1988. These missions were carried out in partnership with CNES. It is the French equivalent of the NASA-Omega relationship.

What is the connection between Yema and Seiko?

In 1986, Seiko (via Hattori-Seiko Co Ltd) acquired Yema by purchasing the shares of Matra Horlogerie. The brand was managed from Japan from 1986 to 2004. During this period, certain Yema models (such as the Superman II) adopted Seiko aesthetic codes, and Seiko calibres (7A38 on the Spationaute III) were integrated into certain watches. In 2004, Yema became française again.

What is the connection between Yema and Richard Mille?

Richard Mille — the founder of the high-watchmaking brand that bears his name — got his start in the watch industry at Yema in the 1980s, when the brand was part of Matra Horlogerie. He was responsible for international development. It is a historical fact that illustrates the network and importance of Yema in française watchmaking.

What is the Yachtingraf and why is it sought after?

The Yachtingraf is a regatta chronograph — a watch with a countdown integrated to count down the minutes before the start of a sailing race. It is a rare technical complication in watchmaking. Yema was the official supplier to the French Sailing Federation and the timekeeper of the Route du Rhum. Vintage Yachtingraf models with aperture countdown are sought-after technical pieces.

What movements are found in vintage Yema watches?

Two main families: France Ébauches (FE) — French automatic movements, used in the Superman and automatic Yema watches — and Swiss Valjoux — calibres 7733 (hand-wound chronograph, two registers), 7736 (three registers), and 7750 (automatic chronograph), used in the Rallygraf, Yachtingraf, and Flygraf. Both are robust movements and easy to service.

How can you distinguish a first-series Superman from a Superman from the 1980s?

Several indicators: the dial (first series: matte black dial, "leaf" or "sword" hands, "Superman" marking in fine lettering; 1980s: sometimes colored dials, Seiko influence in the design), the movement (first series: France Ébauches; Seiko period: Seiko or Miyota calibres), the case shape (first series: classic round case; some 70s variants: cushion case), and the bezel-lock mechanism (present on authentic dive models).

Is the Yema Superman a good alternative to the Submariner?

Both are authentic professional dive watches. The Submariner is more highly valued and benefits from Rolex notoriety. The Superman offers française military legitimacy (Marine Nationale, Air Force, a unique mechanism (bezel-lock), and a vintage price 5 to 10 times lower. It is instrument versus status — two different propositions.

Are vintage Yema watches increasing in value?

At Atelier Victor, we approach watchmaking from the perspective of a pleasure purchase. While first-series Superman, Rallygraf "Brown Sugar", aperture Yachtingraf, and Spationaute have seen demand evolve favorably — driven by the revival of the brand and growing interest in française watchmaking —, we guide our clients toward pieces that match their aesthetic and mechanical criteria, without making financial recommendations.

Where can you find a strap for a vintage Yema?

Atelier Victor offers compatible watch straps — in leather (calfskin, perforated racing), steel, rubber, and NATO. The most common lug widths on vintage Yema watches: 18 mm (Rallygraf, chronographs), 20 mm (Superman, Navygraf). NATO straps and dive rubber straps type are particularly well suited to the Superman. Contact us via WhatsApp.

Discover our other française watchmaking collections: LIP vintage . And our vintage chronographs: complete chronograph collection, Omega Speedmaster, Breitling Navitimer. By budget: -500 € · 500-1 000 €.

A question about a vintage watch Yema? Contact us via WhatsApp or by email.