Vintage Cartier Panthère 839490 Steel Gold — Medium 27mm Cream Dial (1990s)
Only 1 available
Payment by bank transfer: -3%
Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU
Lifetime authenticity guarantee
Serviced movement & 1 year warranty
International shipping
Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
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Cartier Panthère Medium steel and gold: the icon of the 1980s with a patina cream dial
This Cartier watch belongs to the Panthère, one of the house’s most recognizable designs, created in the 1980s and since become a style icon. This is the Medium model, in a two-tone version in steel and 18-carat gold, unisex and worn by both women and men. Its carrée case with cut corners is framed by an 18-carat gold bezel held by exposed screws, a visual signature inherited from the Santos. The case measures 27mm (30mm with the crown) for a Lug-to-lug of 36mm and a thickness of 6.1mm.
The cream dial is the true luxury of this example. Original and never restored, it has over time taken on a warm, deep tone that a new Panthère will never know, whose dial is silvered white. The black Roman numerals, outlined by an inner railway minute track, frame the CARTIER signature, and a secret signature is concealed within the Romans, an authentication mark specific to the house. The blued sword hands stand out against the light background, while the date aperture sits at 5 o’clock.
Inside beats a Swiss quartz movement, with three hands and date. The Panthère has never sought complication: above all, it is a jeweler’s watch, where design takes precedence over technical display. The movement of this example has been checked by our watchmaker and the battery replaced before shipment. The hexagonal crown is set with a blue cabochon, another Cartier signature.
On the wrist, the panthère mesh bracelet gives the piece its entire character. Its articulated steel links, enhanced by a central row of 18-carat gold, drape the wrist with the suppleness of fabric and fasten with a fully concealed folding clasp. It is this bracelet, even more than the case, that made the legend of the Panthère. It is currently adjusted to approximately 15.5cm wrist size, and additional links can be ordered to fit a larger wrist.
Three points to note
- The dial is original and has never been restored: its cream patina is the result of time, and this is a major value criterion on a vintage Panthère. To the best of our knowledge, the case has not been polished.
- The bracelet is adjusted to approximately 15.5cm: additional links are available on request to fit a larger wrist. Please write to us before purchase.
- The steel bracelet shows visible signs of wear and the gold bezel has fine marks, consistent with the age of the piece. We prefer to point this out rather than embellish it.
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Technical specifications
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Panthère Medium, steel and gold, single-row bracelet
- Reference: 839490
- Estimated year: 1990s
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Men’s and women’s watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Swiss quartz
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 5 o'clock
- Case: Steel (steel case back), carrée shape with cut corners
- Bezel: 18-carat gold, exposed screws
- Dimensions: 27mm (30mm with the crown)
- Lug to lug: 36mm
- Thickness: 6.1mm (Crystal included)
- Lug width: 15mm
- Crown: Hexagonal, blue cabochon, original
- Dial: Cream patina, black Roman numerals, railroad track, secret signature, unrestored, original
- Hands: Blued sword hands, original
- Crystal: Sapphire, very good condition
- Bracelet: panthère mesh, steel and 18-carat gold single row, wrist size approximately 15.5cm, additional links available on request, original
- Buckle: Concealed folding clasp, original
Condition and warranty
- Overall condition: Very good condition. Original cream dial, unrestored, with remarkable patina. Case to our knowledge unpolished, retaining its original geometry. The steel bracelet, however, shows visible signs of wear and the gold bezel has fine marks, consistent with the age of the piece.
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Movement: Checked quartz movement, new battery, 1-year warranty
- Included: Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Cartier Panthère?
Panthère is one of Cartier's signature designs, created in the 1980s. It features the carrée case with cut corners and the exposed screws inherited from the Santos, but combines them with a flexible articulated mesh bracelet known as "panthère", of remarkable suppleness. Having become a style icon, it is now one of the most sought-after Cartier watches, both in vintage versions and in re-editions.
What is the Cartier secret signature?
Cartier conceals the house name in one of the Roman numerals on its dials, in lowercase letters. It is an original detail, invisible to the naked eye, which contributes to the authentication of the piece. It is indeed present on this example, whose dial has never been restored.
Why is an unrestored dial valuable?
Because it is irreplaceable. A new Panthère has a silvery white dial; this one has turned cream over the decades, a patina that no one can reproduce. On the vintage market, an original, unrefinished dial is a major value criterion: it attests that the watch has not been altered and gives it a unique character.
Is the bezel in solid gold?
Yes. On this two-tone Panthère, the bezel and the central row of the bracelet are in solid 18-carat gold, combined with a steel case and steel bracelet. This is not plating: it is what distinguishes steel and gold Panthère from plated two-tone watches of the same era.
Does this Panthère suit which wrist?
The Medium model, with its 27mm case and its Lug-to-lug of 36mm, is the most versatile format in the collection: elegantly worn by a woman, it remains entirely credible on a slender masculine wrist. The bracelet here is adjusted to approximately 15.5cm. If your wrist is larger, additional links can be ordered: write to us before your purchase and we will assess the feasibility with you.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
We accept several payment methods:
- Bank card (Visa, Mastercard — American Express not accepted)
- Bank transfer (AED, EUR, USD)
- Cryptocurrency (USDT, USDC)
- PayPal
Other currencies accepted upon request. Exchange fees of approximately 3% may apply.
A 3% discount is granted for any payment by bank transfer starting from €1,000.
Does the strap not suit you? Add the strap of your choice to your order: we will fit it to your watch before shipment, at no fitting charge.
International Shipping
Shipped within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination. Delivery in 2 to 6 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Free delivery from €1,000 of purchase, as well as on the Jewelry Atelier Victor
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Pickup in Dubai
Hand delivery by appointment in Downtown, Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and Customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product sheet. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt, at the buyer's expense. In exceptional situations, customs checks may extend the delivery time, regardless of our wishes and those of the carrier.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.
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