Vintage Cartier Must Vendôme 590004 Vermeil — Black Onyx Dial (1990s)
Only 1 available
Payment by bank transfer: -3%
Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU
Lifetime authenticity guarantee
Serviced movement & 1 year warranty
International shipping
Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
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Cartier Must Vendôme vermeil: the watch with a black onyx dial and Vendôme lugs
This Cartier watch belongs to the Must of Cartier line, the collection the maison launched in the late 1970s to make its style more accessible, without compromising any of its elegance. This is the Vendôme model, reference 590004, in vermeil — 925 sterling silver coated with a layer of gold, the technique that gives the brilliance of gold at a lower cost. Unisex, it can be worn just as well by a woman as by a man with a slender wrist. Its round case, with distinctive Vendôme screw-down lugs in the form of lyres, measures 24mm (27mm including the crown) for a lug to lug of 30mm and a thickness of only 5mm.
The black onyx dial is what makes this example particularly sought after. With a deep, glossy lacquered black finish, entirely free of indexes, it bears only the must de Cartier signature in gilt at the top and the famous interlaced double C at the bottom, with SWISS at the base. Two slender gilt sword hands trace the time with absolute restraint. It is more a jeweler's dial than a watchmaker's, with immediate elegance.
Inside beats a quartz movement with two hands. The watch is simply maintained, through a battery change by any watchmaker. The movement of this example has been checked by our watchmaker and the battery replaced before shipping. The fluted crown is set with a blue cabochon, the instantly recognizable signature of Cartier.
On the wrist, the piece embraces the discreet, refined appeal of a de ville jewel. The warm vermeil, the onyx dial and the blue cabochon create an ensemble of great sobriety, here complemented by a black lizard-style leather strap. This strap is not original and has been weakened by time: we recommend planning for its replacement. The Lug width of 14mm calls for slender straps.
Three points to note
- The black onyx dial is the most sought-after variant of the Must Vendôme: with a deep lacquered black finish, it bears the signature interlaced double C of Cartier.
- The case is in vermeil, that is, 925 sterling silver gold-plated, not solid gold: this construction is the original one of the Must line.
- The strap is not original and has been weakened by age. It remains wearable, but we recommend planning for its replacement.
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Technical characteristics
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Must of Cartier Vendôme
- Reference: 590004
- Estimated year: 1990s
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Quartz
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Case: Vermeil (solid 925 sterling silver gold-plated), round shape, Vendôme lugs
- Case back: Vermeil
- Dimensions: 24mm (27mm including the crown)
- Lug to lug: 30mm
- Thickness: 5mm (Crystal included)
- Lug width : 14mm
- Crown : Fluted, blue cabochon, original
- Dial : Black lacquered onyx, Cartier must signature, interlaced double C, original
- Hands : Gilded sword hands, original
- Crystal : Mineral, very good condition (9/10)
- Strap : Black lizard-style leather, not original, weakened (replacement recommended)
- Buckle : Tang buckle, original
Condition and warranty
- Overall condition : In very good condition. Clear, deep onyx dial, hands intact. The vermeil shows fine superficial signs of wear, consistent with the age of the piece. The strap, which is not original, is weakened.
- Water resistance : Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity : Lifetime guarantee
- Movement : Checked quartz movement, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year
- Included : Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
- Not included : Original box and papers (Cartier vintage box available as an option, +90 €)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Must line of Cartier?
The Must collection of Cartier was born in the late 1970s, conceived as the maison’s more accessible line, without giving up its style. Its guiding idea was vermeil: sterling silver covered with gold, offering the radiance of gold at a fraction of its price. The Vendôme model, with its lugs shaped like screwed stretcher bars, is one of its purest and most recognizable expressions.
What is vermeil?
Vermeil is sterling silver, here 925 silver, covered with a layer of gold. It is neither gold plating on brass nor solid gold: the base is a precious metal, silver, which distinguishes vermeil from simple plating. This is the original construction of Cartier Must watches, a guarantee of their quality and character.
What is the onyx dial of this Cartier?
It is a deep, glossy black lacquered dial, devoid of any indexes, bearing only the Cartier must signature and the maison’s interlaced double C. This onyx variant is one of the most sought-after of the Must Vendôme by collectors, for its minimalism and striking contrast with the gilded hands and case band.
Is this Cartier water-resistant?
No. Water resistance is never guaranteed on a vintage watch: the original gaskets have aged and the caseback pressure is no longer what it was on day one. Avoid showers, swimming pools and the sea. A simple contact with rainwater, however, poses no difficulty.
Which wrist is this watch suitable for?
With a 24mm case and a 30mm Lug-to-lug, this Must Vendôme is a delicately sized piece, made for slim to medium wrists. Although it is perfectly worn by a woman, it remains credible on a slim male wrist, especially in its onyx-dial version, which is more understated. Its 5mm thickness makes it an exceptionally slim watch.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
We accept several payment methods:
- Bank card (Visa, Mastercard — American Express not accepted)
- Bank transfer (AED, EUR, USD)
- Cryptocurrency (USDT, USDC)
- PayPal
Other currencies accepted upon request. Exchange fees of approximately 3% may apply.
A 3% discount is granted for any payment by bank transfer starting from €1,000.
Does the strap not suit you? Add the strap of your choice to your order: we will fit it to your watch before shipment, at no fitting charge.
International Shipping
Shipped within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination. Delivery in 2 to 6 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Free delivery from €1,000 of purchase, as well as on the Jewelry Atelier Victor
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Pickup in Dubai
Hand delivery by appointment in Downtown, Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and Customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product sheet. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt, at the buyer's expense. In exceptional situations, customs checks may extend the delivery time, regardless of our wishes and those of the carrier.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.
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