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Eska Watch Gold-Plated Teardrop Lugs — Salmon Dial (1950s)

Only 1 available


Selling price€546,00

Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Movement checked & guaranteed for 1 year

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A salmon dial glowing beneath the domed Crystal, four golden numerals and eight markers, two teardrop lugs, and Eska, two letters for Silvan Kocher, founder in 1918 of a dress watch manufacture.

A vintage Eska watch from the 1950s, salmon dial and teardrop lugs

This vintage Eska watch bears just two letters as its name: S.K., for Silvan Kocher, who in 1918 founded S. Kocher & Co. in Selzach, in the canton of Solothurn, with his son Erwin, before moving it to Grenchen in 1937. The house built its reputation on the dress watch: carefully made small calibres, elaborate dials, and in the 1950s automatic watches with cloisonné enamel dials, then a diver, the Amphibian, at the end of the decade. It also sold for export under the Royce brand, and disappeared with the quartz crisis in the mid-1980s. This one is a mechanical watch from the 1950s, in the dress register that made Eska’s name.

Its salmon dial defines its character, a coppery pink brightened by the domed acrylic Crystal, with a light patina specific to this example. Four applied golden Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, eight golden markers at the other hours, a fine minute track, a sub-seconds register at six o’clock marked 60, and two golden leaf hands. The Eska signature in cursive beneath 12.

The gold-plated 33mm case, 39.4mm from Lug-to-lug to Lug-to-lug and 9mm thick, is recognisable by its teardrop lugs, the curved post-war design, with a steel caseback and fixed bars: the strap passes through the lugs rather than being fitted with spring bars. The fluted crown was replaced during the watch’s lifetime. The hand-wound mechanical movement was serviced in 2025 by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is fitted with a black crocodile-style leather strap and its Buckle, both later additions.

Three points to note

01

Teardrop lugs — the post-war curve, on a 33mm gold-plated case with fixed bars.

02

Salmon dial — four applied numerals, eight golden markers, sub-seconds, golden leaf hands.

03

Eska, 1918 — S.K. for Silvan Kocher, the Grenchen manufacture of dress watches and enamel dials.

Why choose a vintage watch with a salmon dial?

This vintage Eska watch holds a distinct place among vintage watches for men and women: its 33mm size suits both, and it brings together two signatures of the 1950s, the salmon dial and teardrop lugs, in a dress watch from a Swiss maker specialized in this style. A vintage mechanical watch with character, at an entry-level budget for authentic vintage.

Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement check, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical specifications

  • Brand: Eska (S. Kocher & Co.)
  • Model: Teardrop lugs, sub-seconds
  • Estimated year: 1950s
  • Origin: Switzerland (Grenchen)
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, serviced in 2025
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
  • Case: Gold-plated, round, teardrop lugs, fixed lugs, steel caseback
  • Diameter: 33mm (34.4mm including the crown)
  • Lug to lug: 39.4mm
  • Thickness: 9mm
  • Lug width: 19mm (fixed lugs)
  • Crown: Fluted, not original
  • Dial: Salmon, applied golden Arabic numerals, dot indexes, sub-seconds at 6 o'clock
  • Hands: Golden leaf hands
  • Crystal: Domed acrylic (condition 9/10)
  • Strap: Black crocodile-style leather, not original
  • Buckle: Not original

Condition and guarantee

  • Overall condition: Good condition for its age. The salmon dial is clean, with the light patina specific to this example, and crisp golden numerals and hands. The gold-plated case shows the signs of use of a worn watch, with plating wear on the bezel and lugs, which our photographs show without retouching. The Crystal acrylic crystal is in very good condition (9/10).
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanical: Movement serviced in 2025, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

Who is Eska?
A Swiss manufacture founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher and his son Erwin in Selzach, and established in Grenchen in 1937: Eska is the pronunciation of its initials, S.K. Specializing in dress watches and refined small calibres, in the 1950s it produced automatic watches with cloisonné enamel dials, then a diver, the Amphibian, and sold for export under the Royce brand. It disappeared with the quartz crisis in the mid-1980s; the name has since been revived.

What are fixed lugs?
The bars that hold the strap are soldered to the lugs, rather than being removable spring bars. The strap therefore passes through the lugs, like a one-piece strap or an open-ended leather strap, which requires a suitable strap.

What are teardrop lugs?
Curved lugs, thick at the case and tapering toward the strap, whose profile recalls a drop. This design marks the dress watches of the 1940s and 1950s and gives the watch more presence on the wrist than its diameter suggests.

Has the movement been serviced?
Yes, in 2025, by our partner watchmakers: complete disassembly, cleaning, oiling and adjustment. It is guaranteed for one year. A hand-wound watch is wound every day, and a vintage watch is not guaranteed water-resistant.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or large wrist?
With a 33mm diameter, 39.4mm Lug-to-lug and 9mm thickness, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 18cm — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its teardrop lugs give it more presence on the wrist than its diameter suggests. The Lug width measures 19mm, on fixed lugs: the strap passes through the lugs.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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Eska Watch Gold-Plated Teardrop Lugs — Salmon Dial (1950s)
Eska Watch Gold-Plated Teardrop Lugs — Salmon Dial (1950s) Selling price€546,00

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