Cartier Must Colisée Watch Vermeil (1994) – Full Set & Black Bracelet

A question about this piece?
Chat with us on WhatsApp →

Vermeil Cartier and the Trinity’s three golds

This Must Watch by Cartier Colisée reference 590002, produced on March 6, 1994, is a feminine jewel-format piece, with a 24mm round vermeil case. The middle case is entirely smooth and domed, with no added bezel or break in the line: a single polished surface running from the edge of the Crystal to the lugs. This design, more fluid than the house’s angular silhouettes, is what distinguishes the Colisée in the catalogue.

The dial is the element that sets this example apart. An outer white lacquered ring bears the only Roman numerals XII and VI, in black, along with the signature must de Cartier and the inscription SWISS. The center features four applied fan-arranged sectors, executed in the house’s three golds — yellow, rose, and gray. This is the Trinity motif, imagined by Louis Cartier in 1924 for his ring of three intertwined bands, here transposed onto the surface of a dial. The sword hands, in blued steel, stand out with clarity against it.

The case is in vermeil: solid 925 silver covered with a twenty-micron layer of gold. It is neither plating over brass nor solid gold. The base is a precious metal, which changes how the material wears, its weight in the hand, and the nature of what appears in areas of wear. The crown is set with the blue cabochon that immediately signals the house.

The Must line by Cartier was born in the late 1970s, conceived as the house’s entry point without compromise in design. Vermeil was its guiding idea: to offer the radiance of gold on a solid silver base, at a fraction of the price. The concept succeeded to the point that these pieces now constitute one of the most sought-after paths into the style of Cartier.

Three points to note

• Trinity dial — four applied sectors in the house’s three golds, yellow, rose, and gray, a distinctly less common variant than full white or black dials.
• 20-micron vermeil — solid 925 silver covered with a thick layer of gold, to be distinguished from simple plating over brass.
• Blued sword hands — the blued steel provides the only cool note on an otherwise white-and-gold dial.

Why choose a vintage Cartier watch?

Acquiring a pre-owned Cartier watch rather than one from a boutique allows access to the most recognizable design in twentieth-century watchmaking at a budget significantly lower than retail price. The pre-owned luxury watches of the Must line hold a special place: produced in vermeil, they combine a precious metal with an entry-level valuation into the world of the house.

This model occupies a precise place among vintage women’s watches: its 24mm size and extreme slimness make it a dress watch worn like a jewel, on its own or paired with fine bracelets. The compact format, long considered too discreet, now corresponds to the dominant demand on the pre-owned market.

Like all our Cartier watches, this one has been opened and checked by our watchmakers: verification of the caliber and its consistency with the reference, checking of the serial number, examination of the dial, hands, and case. It is this examination that underpins our lifetime authenticity guarantee. Each luxury watch that we offer is also covered by a twelve-month mechanical warranty.

→ Discover our vintage Cartier watches
→ View our selection of vintage women's watches

Technical specifications

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Must de Cartier Colisée
• Commercial reference: W1006654
• Case reference: 590002
• Year: March 6, 1994
• Origin: Switzerland
• Gender: Women's watch
• Movement: Quartz, caliber Cartier 690
• Functions: Hours, minutes
• Case: Vermeil, solid 925 silver covered with 20-micron gold, round shape
• Dimensions: 24mm (26.5mm with the crown)
• Lug to lug: 31.4mm
• Thickness: 5.5mm
• Lug width: 12mm (specific Cartier attachment)
• Crown: Blue cabochon, original
• Dial: White lacquered, four applied three-gold sectors (Trinity), Roman numerals XII and VI, original
• Hands: Blued steel sword hands, original
• Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
• Strap: Black crocodile leather, Cartier, original
• Buckle: Cartier deployant, original

Condition and warranty

• Overall condition: Very good condition. The lacquered dial is immaculate, the Trinity sectors, the Roman numerals and the blued hands are perfectly crisp, the Crystal is in very fine condition (9/10). The vermeil case shows light signs of wear, visible on the bezel around ten and eleven o’clock as well as on the lower left flank, as shown in our photographs.
• Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
• Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
• Mechanical: Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 12 months
• Included: Atelier Victor invoice, original box and papers
• Not included: Current Cartier warranty

Frequently asked questions

What is the Trinity motif?
Trinity refers to the combination of the three golds of Cartier — yellow, rose and grey — conceived by Louis Cartier in 1924 for a ring composed of three intertwined bands, each in a different gold. The motif became one of the maison's signatures and appears on its Jewelry as well as on some of its watches. On this dial, it takes the form of four applied fan-shaped sectors, whose tones stand out clearly in direct light.

What is vermeil?
Vermeil is solid silver, here 925 silver, covered with a layer of gold — twenty microns on this reference, which constitutes a thick plating. It is neither gold-plated brass nor solid gold: the base is a precious metal, which distinguishes vermeil from simple platings. This is the original construction of the Must watches of Cartier and the guiding principle of the line.

What is the Colisée model?
The Colisée is the round variation of the Must line by Cartier, whose entirely smooth, domed case middle forms a single polished surface from the Crystal to the lugs. It offers a more fluid and softer reading than the house's angular silhouettes, and differs from the Vendôme by the absence of screwed brancard lugs. Its 24mm format places it firmly in the feminine register.

How should a vermeil case be cared for?
A soft, dry cloth is sufficient for routine care. Avoid silver cleaning products: they are abrasive and attack the surface layer of gold. In areas where the gilding may begin to thin, the silver may darken slightly over time, which is the normal behavior of the metal and not a defect. Regilding remains possible with a specialist.

What wrist size is this watch suitable for?
With a 24mm case, 31.4mm of Lug-to-lug, and 5.5mm thickness, this is a strictly feminine format, suited to slim to medium wrists. The Lug width measures 12mm and corresponds to a specific Cartier attachment: a standard strap cannot be fitted directly. We can guide you toward compatible references if you wish to change the leather.

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

Chat with us on WhatsApp →