Vintage Longines Charleston Watch 5149 — Gold Sub-Seconds (1980s)
Lifetime authenticity guarantee
Movement guaranteed for 1 year
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Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
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Atelier Note
Slanted Roman numerals, railway minute track, sub-seconds at six o'clock: the ivory dial references watches from the 1920s. Under the enamel, a Swiss quartz movement from 1986 and five millimetres thick.
The Charleston: a 1920s dial on a gold-plated case
This Longines watch belongs to the Charleston line, presented by the house in 1986 at the European watch and jewellery fair. The series takes up the graphic vocabulary of watches from the 1920s — Roman or Breguet numerals, off-centred sub-seconds, yellow gold-plated cases — and places it on ultra-thin quartz movements.
The ivory dial offers the full reading. Twelve black Roman numerals run around it, leaning towards the centre, framed by a double railway minute track that repeats the inner track. Below twelve o'clock, the Longines signature in handwritten script and the mention Quartz. At six o'clock, a sub-seconds counter recessed into the dial, marked in increments of 10. At the bottom, the mention 976 SWISS 5149.
The round gold-plated case measures 32mm and is 5mm thick. The bezel is smooth and domed, the lugs are fine, long and curved towards the wrist — a design that extends the watch well beyond its diameter and gives it a Lug-to-lug of only 36mm.
The blackened hands are cut in a leaf shape, the counter seconds hand reduced to a thread. The movement is a Swiss quartz: it has been checked by our watchmakers, fitted with a new battery, and it carries a 1-year guarantee.
Three points to note
01
Off-centred sub-seconds at six o'clock — a separate counter, rather than centre seconds, which is the signature of the line.
02
32mm and 5mm thick — an ultra-thin, on a standard 18mm Lug width.
03
Case gold-plated with steel caseback — the plating wears on the edges, detailed in the Overall condition bullet point.
Why choose this vintage Longines?
This pre-owned Longines watch holds a precise place among our vintage watches: a Swiss dress watch with off-centred sub-seconds, designed in 1986 to resemble a watch from 1925. It is one of the rare cases where vintage references vintage, and the only place in the Longines catalogue where this particular dial is found. The 18mm Lug width, a standard size, leaves full freedom in the choice of leather.
Like all our pre-owned luxury watches , this one has been opened and checked by our partner watchmakers: verification of the movement, examination of the dial, hands and case. Each vintage Longines watch that we offer comes with an invoice Atelier Victor serving as a certificate, a 1-year guarantee and guaranteed lifetime authenticity.
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Technical specifications
- Brand: Longines
- Model: Charleston
- Reference: 5149
- Estimated year: Late 1980s
- Serial number: 2158****
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Men's watch, women's watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Swiss quartz
- Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
- Case: Gold-plated (steel back), round shape
- Diameter: 32mm (33.5mm with crown)
- Lug-to-lug: 36mm
- Thickness: 5mm
- Lug width: 18mm
- Crown: Gold-plated, original
- Dial: Ivory, Roman numerals, double railway minute track, sub-seconds at 6 o'clock, 976 SWISS 5149 marking, original
- Hands: Black, leaf shape, original
- Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
- Strap: Black crocodile leather, not original
- Buckle: Steel pin buckle, not original
Condition and guarantee
- Overall condition: Good state of preservation. The ivory dial is clean: Roman numerals and double railway minute track perfectly printed, sub-seconds register intact, handwritten signature legible. Crystal mineral in very good condition (9/10). Case gold-plated in very good condition.
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Mechanics: Checked and functional quartz movement, new battery, 1-year guarantee
- Included: Invoice Atelier Victor, protective case
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently asked questions
What is the Longines Charleston line?
It is a series launched by Longines in 1986 and presented that year at the European Watch and Jewellery Fair. It reprises the aesthetic of 1920s watches — Roman or Breguet numerals, offset sub-seconds, gold-plated cases — with extra-thin quartz movements. The name refers to the dance of the Roaring Twenties.
What is an offset sub-seconds?
It is a seconds hand that rotates in its own subdial, here at six o'clock, instead of sharing the central axis with the hours and minutes. This was the standard architecture before the 1950s. The centre of the dial is then left clear, which makes reading lighter and leaves room for the minute track.
What does the marking 976 SWISS 5149 at the bottom of the dial mean?
It is the factory marking printed below six o'clock. SWISS attests to Swiss origin, and the groups of numbers on either side are production codes used by the house. We reproduce them as they appear on the dial, without interpreting them.
Does a gold-plated case require precautions?
Yes, more than steel. The plating is a layer of gold applied over a base metal: it wears at friction points, mainly the edges of the bezel and the back. It is preserved by avoiding water, household products and cosmetics, and is cleaned with a soft, dry cloth, never with an abrasive or polishing paste, which remove the layer.
Is this piece suitable for a slim or large wrist?
With a 32mm diameter, 36mm Lug-to-lug and 5mm thickness, it sits on wrists of around 15 to 19cm — a guide, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its curved lugs keep the plated case on the wrist, and its slimness makes it disappear under a sleeve.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
Free delivery
Delivery is free on all our pieces internationally. Dispatch within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express, Emirates Post, EMS or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination, delivery within 2 to 14 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Collection in Dubai
In-person handover by appointment in Downtown Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product page. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt and are payable by the buyer. Customs inspections may in rare cases extend the delivery time.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.
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