Vintage Cartier Santos Galbée Watch 987901 — Steel (1990s)

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Visible screws and the curved lines of the 1990s

This Cartier Santos Galbée large model watch, reference 987901, can be worn equally well by a man or a woman, with a 29 × 41mm steel case whose 6.7mm thickness Crystal included places it in the dress watch category despite its sporty appearance. Eight visible screws run through the bezel, four at the corners and four in the middle of the sides: this detail, inherited from the Santos of 1904 designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, remains the model's most immediate signature.

Galbée refers to the profile of the case. Where earlier Santos had flat sides, this generation launched at the end of the 1980s adopts a curved case middle that slopes toward the wrist and joins the bracelet seamlessly. Wearing comfort is transformed, and the watch appears slimmer than it really is.

The cream dial features Roman numerals in blue, framed by a railway minute track in the same shade — a less common configuration than the black numerals usually found on this reference. The sword hands and central seconds hand are in blued steel and match this color exactly. The date aperture is at six o'clock, the signature CARTIER beneath twelve, and the words SWISS MADE at the bottom of the dial. The crown is set with the blue cabochon that is emblematic of the maison.

The steel bracelet is integrated into the case and reprises the visible screw motif on each link, alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It fastens with a Buckle folding clasp Cartier. The Santos Galbée was launched in 1987, at the height of quartz dominance, and represents the moment when Cartier succeeded in translating a 1904 design into a contemporary language without betraying it.

Three points to note

• Blue Roman numerals — a less common configuration than black numerals, with blued hands and a blued seconds hand that match them exactly.
• Large model 29 × 41mm — the most sought-after size of the Santos Galbée, equally wearable by a man or a woman.
• Case probably repolished — the edges have lost some of their original sharpness, which explains the price of this piece, detailed in the Condition section.

Why buy a pre-owned Cartier?

Acquiring a pre-owned Cartier watch rather than buying in a boutique gives access to one of watchmaking's most recognizable designs at a budget significantly lower than retail price, in a piece already broken in. The Santos is among the pre-owned luxury watches whose value is the most stable, supported by a design the maison has never abandoned.

This model holds a precise place among men's and women's watches: its 29 × 41mm format and integrated bracelet make it a steel watch that transitions from the office to the weekend without change. It is one of the rare dress pieces that can withstand daily wear without seeming out of place.

Like all our Cartier watches, this one has been opened and checked by our watchmakers: verification of the caliber and its consistency with the reference, checking of the serial number, examination of the dial, hands, and case. It is this examination that forms the basis of our lifetime authenticity guarantee, and also allows us to identify previous interventions. Each luxury watch that we offer is covered by a one-year warranty.

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Technical specifications

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Santos Galbée large model
• Reference: 987901
• Estimated year: 1990s
• Origin: Switzerland (Swiss Made)
• Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
• Movement: Quartz Cartier
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 o'clock
• Case: Steel, curved carrée shape, probably repolished
• Case back: Steel, screwed
• Dimensions: 29mm (33mm including the crown)
• Lug to lug: 41mm
• Thickness: 6.7mm (Crystal included)
• Lug width: 17.5mm
• Bezel: Steel, eight visible screws
• Crown: Hexagonal with blue cabochon, original
• Dial: Cream, blue Roman numerals, railway minute track, original
• Hands: Blued steel sword hands, blued central seconds hand, original
• Crystal: Sapphire, excellent condition (9/10)
• Bracelet: Integrated steel with visible screws, 16.5cm (additional links on request), original
• Buckle: Deployant Cartier, original

Condition and warranty

• Overall condition: Very good condition. The cream dial is immaculate, the Roman numerals and blued hands are perfectly crisp, and the sapphire Crystal is in excellent condition (9/10). The case has very likely been polished during its lifetime: the edges of the case middle and bezel have lost some of their original sharpness, and the contrast between brushed and polished surfaces has softened on the bracelet. Signs of wear have accumulated since then, particularly visible on the lower links, as shown in our photographs.
• Water resistance: Rated to 30 metres when it left the factory. We do not perform pressure testing and therefore cannot guarantee this rating on a pre-owned watch.
• Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
• Mechanical: Quartz movement checked, new battery, one-year warranty
• Included: Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
• Not included: Original box and papers. Additional links available on request.

Frequently asked questions

What does a repolished case mean?
Polishing removes a thin layer of metal to erase scratches. When repeated, it gradually softens the edges that define the case design and reduces the contrast between brushed and polished surfaces. On this Santos, the signs are visible: the angles of the case middle and bezel are softened compared with an example that has never been repolished. This affects neither strength, nor water resistance, nor operation, but it matters to a collector concerned with the integrity of the original surfaces. The price of this piece reflects that.

What wrist size is this bracelet suitable for?
The bracelet currently measures 16.5cm, which suits wrists of approximately 15.5cm and under. This is a short length for a large model: if your wrist exceeds this measurement, additional links are required. We can source them for you to order — let us know your wrist size before confirming your purchase and we will confirm the lead time and cost.

What is the Galbée model?
Galbée refers to the profile of the case, whose middle case is curved and slopes down toward the wrist, whereas earlier Santos had flat sides. This generation was launched in 1987 and connects to the bracelet without any visible break. The result is markedly greater wearing comfort and a silhouette that appears slimmer than its dimensions would suggest.

Where do the visible screws come from?
They date back to the Santos of 1904, which Louis Cartier designed for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to read the time without taking his hands off the controls of his aircraft. At the time, the screws genuinely fastened the bezel to the case. They became the model's visual signature and are now echoed on each link of the bracelet.

How was this watch authenticated?
Our watchmakers open the case of each piece before it is listed online. They verify the calibre and its consistency with the reference, check the serial number, and examine the dial, hands, and all components. This examination also makes it possible to identify previous interventions, such as the polishing mentioned above. Accompanying documents, when they exist, are reassuring but do not replace expertise.

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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