Vintage Cartier Must Tank Watch Vermeil — Midnight Blue Dial (1980s)
Only 1 available
Payment by bank transfer: -3%
Shipping from Dubai — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the UAE
Lifetime authenticity guarantee
Movement guaranteed for 1 year
Free insured shipping
Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
A question about this piece?
Chat with us on WhatsApp →
Atelier Note
An Must by Cartier Tank in vermeil from the 1980s, small model, midnight blue lacquered dial with golden glitter, blue cabochon crown, hand-wound mechanical movement serviced in atelier in September 2026. Delivered with its Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate.
An Must by Cartier Tank in vermeil, small model, starry midnight blue dial
The rectangular case, 20 mm wide, is 5.7 mm thick. Its two vertical, polished and rounded brancards frame the dial and extend into lugs that hold the strap: the silhouette of the Tank, designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, here reduced to its small model. The vermeil, 925 sterling silver covered in gold, retains its lustre on the polished surfaces and develops patina over time on the edges. The caseback bears the hallmarks and the piece reference.
The midnight blue lacquered dial is sprinkled with fine golden glitter, like a starry sky; the lacquer shows the network of fine crackles that collectors call a spider dial, born of time. The must de Cartier signature is printed below 12 o'clock, the double C monogram above 6 o'clock; no markers, no numerals. Two gold-tone sword hands are enough for reading the time.
The movement is a Swiss hand-wound calibre, like the first Must by Cartier before the arrival of quartz. It was serviced in atelier in September 2026. The crown, topped with a blue cabochon, sits in the caseband at 3 o'clock.
The watch is fitted with a black grained leather strap with Buckle gold-tone pin buckle, both not original. With 28 mm lug-to-lug and 15 mm lug width, it wears on a feminine wrist, as an everyday or evening dress piece.
Three points to note
01
Original starry midnight blue dial — A deep lacquer scattered with golden glitter, with fine crackles, signed must de Cartier: no touch-up.
02
Vermeil — 925 sterling silver covered in gold, hallmarked, in 5.7 mm thickness: the Tank of the Must, between 1977 and the 1980s.
03
Manual winding — A Swiss mechanical calibre, serviced in atelier in September 2026 and guaranteed for 1 year, rather than the quartz of the later Must.
Why choose a vintage Must watch by Cartier Tank?
Launched in 1977, the Must line by Cartier reprises the house designs, led by the Tank, in vermeil cases and with coloured lacquered dials. This piece from the 1980s, a small model with a starry midnight blue dial and mechanical movement, is a feminine version of it, to be worn every day as well as in the evening.
Each piece offered by Atelier Victor is checked by our watchmakers before being put online: movement tested, case and dial examined. It is delivered with the Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a 1-year mechanical guarantee on the movement and a lifetime authenticity guarantee.
→ Discover our vintage Cartier watches
→ See our women's vintage watches
Technical specifications
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Must de Cartier Tank, small model (SM)
- Estimated year: 1980s
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Women's watch
- Movement: Swiss hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber Cartier
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Case: Vermeil, 925 sterling silver covered in gold (hallmarked silver back), rectangular Tank shape
- Width: 20 mm (23 mm with crown)
- Lug-to-lug: 28 mm
- Thickness: 5.7 mm
- Lug width: 15 mm
- Crown: Blue cabochon, original
- Dial: Midnight blue lacquered with gold-tone glitter, fine hairlines (spider dial), original
- Hands: Gold-tone sword hands, original
- Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
- Strap: Grained black leather, not original
- Buckle: Gold-tone pin buckle, not original
Condition and guarantee
- Overall condition: Very well preserved, vermeil and plating in good condition, original spider dial with slight marks around the edge, Crystal 9/10
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Mechanics: Movement serviced in September 2026, 1-year guarantee
- Included: Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, protective case
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently asked questions
What is the Must line by Cartier?
A line launched by Cartier in 1977, which reworks the house's designs, including the Tank, in vermeil cases and with coloured lacquered dials. The first mechanical Must then gave way to quartz versions. We attribute no history to this piece that we cannot verify.
What is vermeil?
925 sterling silver covered with a layer of gold. The case bears silver hallmarks. The plating shows patina born of time on the edges, visible in the photos.
What is a spider dial?
A lacquered dial whose lacquer has developed, over time, a fine network of hairlines, like a web. This pattern is characteristic of the dark lacquers on Must by Cartier. This one is original and shows slight marks around the edge, visible in the photos.
Is this watch suitable for a small wrist?
Yes. At 20 mm wide, 28 mm Lug-to-lug and 5.7 mm thick, this small model wears well on a slim wrist; the 15 mm strap is easily replaced.
How do delivery and payment work?
The piece is shipped with tracking and insurance by a trusted carrier, to a pickup point or to your home depending on the destination. Delivery is free. Taxes and customs duties remain the responsibility of the buyer outside the area. For pieces over €1,000, payment by bank transfer benefits from a 3% discount.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
Free delivery
Delivery is free on all our pieces internationally. Dispatch within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express, Emirates Post, EMS or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination, delivery within 2 to 14 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Collection in Dubai
In-person handover by appointment in Downtown Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product page. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt and are payable by the buyer. Customs inspections may in rare cases extend the delivery time.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.
Choose the options
WATCHES BY BUDGET
