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Universal Genève Tonneau Watch Steel — Black Lacquered Dial (1970s)

Only 1 available


Selling price€682,50

Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Serviced movement & 1 year warranty

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

An oval of black lacquer set within a tonneau of sculpted steel — signed by the Geneva house that the watchmaking world has been rediscovering since its revival.

A Universal Genève from the 1970s, black and sculpted

This watch is signed Universal Genève — the house founded in 1894, which in the twentieth century was one of the great names of Genève, celebrated for its chronographs and its Polerouter designed by a young Gérald Genta. Long dormant, the brand was revived by Breitling, and since then its vintage watches have been rediscovered by a whole generation of collectors. This one is a feminine piece from the 1970s, reference 811624.

The black lacquered dial, oval in shape, embraces complete restraint: three applied baton hour markers at the quarter hours, the Universal Genève shield at twelve o'clock, the signature in white, and two steel baton hands. Nothing else on the deep lacquer — black does the work.

The tonneau case in polished steel is the true sculpture of this watch: its faceted hooded lugs, cut like scales, envelop the strap and extend the caseband in waves — case work typical of Geneva design in the 1970s, in only 25mm.

The Universal Genève hand-wound mechanical movement has been checked by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is fitted on a later black grained leather strap, with Buckle steel pin buckle.

Three points to note

01

Signed Universal Genève — the Geneva house revived by Breitling, whose vintage is being widely rediscovered.

02

Sculpted caseband — faceted hooded lugs that envelop the strap, the hallmark of Geneva cases from the 1970s.

03

In-house mechanics — a manual Universal Genève calibre in 25mm, checked and guaranteed for one year.

Why choose a vintage Universal Genève?

This pre-owned Universal Genève watch holds a distinctive place among our women's vintage watches: it is an in-house Geneva mechanical movement in a jewellery-sized format — a combination that contemporary watchmaking no longer produces, as quartz has absorbed this segment. The signature itself has never been so closely watched since the brand's revival.

Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and checked by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Each vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical characteristics

  • Brand: Universal Genève
  • Model: tonneau dress watch
  • Reference: 811624
  • Serial number: 34523••
  • Estimated year: 1970s
  • Origin: Switzerland
  • Gender: Women's watch
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound, caliber Universal Genève 11
  • Functions: Hours, minutes
  • Case: Polished steel, steel caseback, tonneau shape with faceted hooded lugs
  • Width: 25mm (26mm including the crown)
  • Lug to lug: 27mm
  • Thickness: 6.7mm
  • Lug width: 14mm
  • Crown: Steel, original
  • Dial: Black lacquered, applied baton hour markers, Universal Genève shield, original
  • Hands: Steel batons, original
  • Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
  • Strap: Black grained leather, non-original
  • Buckle: Steel pin buckle, non-original

Condition and guarantee

  • Overall condition: Very well preserved condition. Crisp black lacquered dial, hour markers and shield without alteration, intact hands, Crystal in very fine condition. The polished case shows light signs of wear on the middle case and the hoods, visible in our photographs.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Mechanical movement checked, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

What is Universal Genève?
It is one of the great historic houses of Genève, founded in 1894, famed in the twentieth century for its Compax chronographs and its Polerouter designed by a young Gérald Genta. Long dormant, the brand was acquired and revived by Breitling — an event that rekindled collectors' interest in all its vintage pieces, from chronographs to dress pieces like this one.

Why does the dial have only three hour markers?
By design choice: on the black lacquer, the house's shield serves as noon, and three hour markers are enough to structure the reading. It is the minimalism of Geneva dress watches from the 1970s — the dial can be read at a glance, and the black remains intact. The steel hands stand out against the lacquer with all the necessary clarity.

How do you wind a hand-wound watch?
Gently turn the crown clockwise, about twenty turns, until you feel resistance. Never force it beyond that point. Daily winding, at the same time each day, is enough to keep the watch running and ensures the best regularity.

A mechanical movement in a 25mm women's watch?
Yes — and it has become rare. Mechanical ladies' calibres, miniaturized to the extreme, have all but disappeared with the arrival of quartz: the industry now produces almost none in this size. This watch beats to the rhythm of a movement from a Geneva house, wound by hand — an experience no longer offered by new watches in this size.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
At 25mm wide, 27mm Lug-to-lug and 6.7mm thick, it is a jewelry-sized format, intended for slim to medium wrists — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its hooded lugs envelop the strap, and the watch follows the wrist in one continuous line. The Lug width measures 14mm, making it easy to change the strap.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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Universal Genève Tonneau Watch Steel — Black Lacquered Dial (1970s)
Universal Genève Tonneau Watch Steel — Black Lacquered Dial (1970s) Selling price€682,50

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