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Universal Genève Watch Calibre 262 Steel — Patinated Dial (1950s)

Only 1 available


Selling price€913,50

Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Movement checked & guaranteed for 1 year

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A silvered dial that seventy years have darkened around three o'clock, two blued hands as fine as strokes, and inside, an in-house calibre from the very same decade in which it designed the Polerouter.

A vintage Universal Genève watch from the 1950s, the de ville watch of the manufacture

This vintage Universal Genève watch comes from a manufacture that, in the 1950s, signed some of its most celebrated creations. Founded in 1894 in Le Locle and later established in Genève, Universal launched the Compax chronograph in 1935 and the Tri-Compax in 1944, then, in 1954, the Polerouter designed by Gérald Genta and its micro-rotor calibre. Alongside these sought-after pieces, the house produced round steel de ville watches like this one, powered by its own calibres: here the calibre 262, hand-wound with sub-seconds, in service from the 1940s through the 1950s. A manufacture mechanical watch, in the simplest design: numerals, markers, sub-seconds.

Its silvered dial bears seventy years of patina, pronounced and deeper around three o'clock, born of time and unique to this example. Six black Arabic numerals at the even hours, six pointed markers at the odd ones, a fine minute track, a sub-seconds register at six o'clock, and two slender blued hands. The Universal Genève signature, sharper than the patina surrounding it, was most likely reprinted during the watch's lifetime.

The steel 35mm case, 42mm Lug-to-lug and 9.5mm thick, features a thin bezel and long straight lugs, the design of the era's round de ville watches, with a steel caseback and an original steel crown beneath an acrylic Crystal. The Universal 262 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement, has been serviced by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is fitted with a vintage black salmon leather strap with Buckle buckle, both later additions.

Three points to note

01

Manufacture — Universal Genève, the house of the Polerouter and the Tri-Compax, and its calibre 262 with sub-seconds.

02

Dial patina — seventy years upon the silvered surface, deeper around three o'clock, unique to this example.

03

35mm steel with long lugs — Arabic numerals, blued hands, for him as for her.

Why choose a vintage Universal Genève watch?

This Universal Genève vintage watch holds a distinct place among men's and women's vintage watches: its 35mm size can be worn equally by either, and it offers access to a Genevan manufacture calibre in a no-complication de ville watch, at a time when the house was signing some of its most sought-after pieces. A manufacture vintage mechanical watch, at the entry-level budget of the great Swiss names.

Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and checked by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and authenticity guaranteed for life.

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Technical characteristics

  • Brand: Universal Genève
  • Model: de ville Watch with sub-seconds
  • Estimated year: 1950s
  • Origin: Switzerland (Genève)
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, Universal 262 calibre, serviced
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
  • Case: Steel, round, straight lugs, steel caseback
  • Diameter: 35mm (36.3mm including the crown)
  • Lug to lug: 42mm
  • Thickness: 9.5mm
  • Lug width: 18mm
  • Crown: Steel, original
  • Dial: Patinated silver-toned, Arabic numerals, pointed markers, sub-seconds at 6 o'clock; signature likely reprinted
  • Hands: Blued, original
  • Crystal: Acrylic, wear scratches (condition 7/10)
  • Strap: Vintage black salmon leather, not original
  • Buckle: Pin buckle, not original

Condition and guarantee

  • General condition: Fair state of preservation for its age. The silver-toned dial shows pronounced patina, shaped by time, heavier around three o'clock; its signature was likely reprinted during the watch's lifetime. The steel case shows the wear scratches of a worn watch, and the acrylic Crystal has scratches (7/10). Our photographs are presented unretouched.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Serviced movement, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

Who is Universal Genève?
A manufacture founded in 1894 in Le Locle and based in Genève, known for its chronographs, Compur in 1934, Compax in 1935, Tri-Compax in 1944, and for the Polerouter of 1954, designed by Gérald Genta around a micro-rotor calibre. It produced its own movements, including the calibre 262 of this watch.

Has the dial signature been retouched?
Most likely, yes: the Universal Genève signature is sharper than the patina surrounding it, which indicates a reprint during the life of the watch. The rest of the dial, numerals, hour markers, minute track and subdial, bears a patina shaped by time, pronounced and deeper toward three o'clock, unique to this example.

What is the Universal 262 calibre?
A hand-wound mechanical movement with sub-seconds, made by Universal Genève and fitted in its de ville watches from the 1940s to the 1950s, at 18,000 vibrations per hour. This one has been serviced by our partner watchmakers, with complete disassembly, cleaning, oiling and adjustment, and it is guaranteed for one year.

What does “sub-seconds” mean?
The seconds are displayed on a separate register at six o'clock rather than by a central hand: this is the original architecture of wristwatches, inherited from pocket watches, which central seconds only supplanted around the turn of the 1950s. It defines the classic design of this Universal.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 35mm diameter, 42mm Lug-to-lug and a thickness of 9.5mm, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 19cm — a guide, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its long lugs and thin bezel give it on the wrist the presence of a larger watch. The Lug width measures 18mm, which makes it easy to change the strap.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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Universal Genève Watch Calibre 262 Steel — Patinated Dial (1950s) Selling price€913,50

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