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Seiko Watch 2220-0180 Steel — Silver Linen Dial (1973)

Only 1 available


Selling price€362,25

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Movement guaranteed for 1 year

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Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A linen weave woven into metal, two hands and nothing else. Below six o'clock, a small flash: the mark of Daini Seikosha, the factory that assembled it in 1973.

A vintage Seiko 2220-0180 Watch from the 1970s, steel with a silvered linen dial

This vintage Seiko Watch bears the case reference 2220-0180 and its serial number dates it to October 1973 — at Seiko, the first digit of the number gives the year and the second the month. Below six o'clock, a small flash is printed on the dial: it is the mark of Daini Seikosha, one of the house's two factories, which competed internally and each signed its own dials — Suwa, the other factory, used a whirlpool.

The original dial is a linen canvas: a fine brushed grid in the metal, whose intersecting lines catch the light like the weave of a fabric and change direction with every tilt of the wrist. Twelve applied baton hour markers, faceted and blackened, mark the hours, doubled at twelve. The SEIKO signature stands alone beneath the top of the dial, and two blackened baton hands are enough to read the time: there is no seconds hand.

The steel case measures 33mm in diameter, 7.2mm thick and 36mm Lug-to-lug, with a thin polished bezel and short, faceted lugs. The crown, in fluted steel, is wound by hand. The Crystal is a slightly domed plexiglass crystal. The movement is the Seiko 2220 calibre, mechanical hand-wound: it was serviced in August 2026 by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is presented on a later black crocodile leather strap, in Lug width of 18mm.

Three points to note

01

Original silvered linen dial — a brushed grid in the metal, changing with every tilt.

02

Two hands, 7.2mm thick — the minimal design of the dress watch, for him as for her.

03

Daini Seikosha signature — the flash below six o'clock names the factory that assembled it in October 1973.

Why choose a vintage Seiko Watch?

This vintage Seiko Watch holds a precise place among men's and women's vintage watches : 33mm in diameter, 36mm lug to lug and 7.2mm thick make up a dress format that slips under a shirt cuff and can be worn on either wrist. An original linen dial, a steel case and a Japanese hand-wound mechanical movement: this is one of the most direct entry points into vintage mechanics.

Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee and guaranteed lifetime authenticity.

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Technical specifications

  • Brand: Seiko
  • Model: Round dress watch, linen dial
  • Reference: 2220-0180
  • Serial number: 3001••
  • Estimated year: 1973
  • Origin: Japan
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, caliber Seiko 2220
  • Functions: Hours, minutes
  • Case: Steel, round shape, steel caseback
  • Diameter: 33mm (35mm with crown)
  • Lug to lug: 36mm
  • Thickness: 7.2mm
  • Lug width: 18mm
  • Crown: Fluted steel, not original
  • Dial: Silvered linen, faceted applied baton markers, Seiko signature, Daini Seikosha lightning bolt, original
  • Hands: Blackened faceted steel batons, original
  • Crystal: Plexiglass (condition 9/10)
  • Strap: Black crocodile leather, not original
  • Buckle: Steel pin buckle, not original

Condition and guarantee

  • General condition: Good state of preservation. The original linen dial is crisp, with a clearly defined texture across the entire surface, and its applied markers and hands show no alteration. The polished steel case shows signs of wear on the bezel and lugs. Plexiglass crystal rated 9/10. Our photographs are presented without retouching.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Movement serviced in August 2026, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, protective case
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

What does the small lightning bolt below six o’clock mean?
It is the mark of Daini Seikosha, one of the two factories of Seiko. For a long time, the company operated two sites in internal competition, each developing its own calibres: Daini signed its dials with a lightning bolt, Suwa with a whirlwind. The symbol therefore indicates which factory produced the watch on your wrist — a detail collectors look at first.

What is a "linen" dial?
A brushed finish in fine intersecting lines, reproducing in metal the weave of linen fabric. The two brushing directions do not catch the light in the same way: the dial shifts from grey to white depending on the angle of the wrist, and the pattern reveals itself up close. It is a surface treatment widely used on Japanese and Swiss dress watches in the 1960s and 1970s.

Is the dial original?
Yes. The linen texture is even right to the edge, the applied hour markers are each made from a single piece with their facets intact, and the signature as well as the Daini lightning bolt are printed sharply — three points that a redial rarely gets right all at once. This dial has not been retouched.

How can you tell it is running without a seconds hand?
This piece displays only the hours and minutes: there is no seconds hand to confirm operation at a glance. Hold the watch to your ear, and the beat of the balance can be heard; or compare the position of the minute hand a few minutes apart. It is wound by hand, about twenty turns of the crown clockwise, never forcing beyond the point of resistance.

Is this piece suited to a slim or larger wrist?
With a 33mm diameter, 36mm Lug-to-lug, and 7.2mm thickness, it suits wrists of approximately 14.5 to 18cm — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its short lugs limit the span of the case, and its slimness lets it slip under a cuff without catching. The 18mm Lug width is one of the most common, which leaves a full choice of replacement straps.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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Steel caseback - Seiko 2220-0180 Vintage Watch - Atelier Victor
Seiko Watch 2220-0180 Steel — Silver Linen Dial (1973) Selling price€362,25

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