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Raketa USSR Watch — Embossed Black, Sub-seconds (1960s)

Only 1 available


Selling price€330,75

Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Movement checked & guaranteed for 1 year

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A black woven like a fabric, two gold hands set upon it, a sub-seconds register beating below — the dress Raketa of the sixties.

A sixties Raketa, embossed black enhanced with gold

This watch is a Raketa, produced in the 1960s by the Petrodvorets manufacture, near Saint Petersburg — Russia’s oldest factory, founded by Peter the Great in 1721 as the atelier lapidary factory of the Peterhof Palace, and renamed Raketa — “rocket” — in 1961, the year of Gagarin’s flight. The Latin signature Raketa 16 JEWELS identifies it as the export version.

Its embossed black dial defines its character: a fine raised grid, woven like a fabric, which catches the light in a discreet checkerboard pattern — a texture rarely found on Soviet productions, and one that gives the black its depth. The silvered baton hour markers punctuate it with restraint, and the golden hands — hours, minutes, and the sub-seconds with round counterweight, at six o’clock — stand out in gold against the dark ground: the dress contrast of the sixties.

The sub-seconds is a period refinement: instead of a central seconds hand, the seconds beat on its own axis, at the bottom of the dial — the architecture of classic dress watches, uncommon at Raketa.

The chromed round case, measuring 33.6mm, with tapered lugs, carries the dress format of the decade. The 16-jewel hand-wound mechanical movement has been checked by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is fitted with a later black crocodile-style leather strap.

Three points to note

01

Embossed black dial — the raised grid that weaves the black like a fabric, rare at Raketa.

02

Gold hands and sub-seconds — the dress contrast of the sixties, on its own axis at six o’clock.

03

Peter the Great manufacture — Petrodvorets, founded in 1721, named Raketa for Gagarin.

Why choose a vintage Soviet watch?

This vintage Raketa watch holds a precise place among vintage men’s and women’s watches: its 33.6mm case can be worn by either, and it is the most dressy of our catalogued Soviet watches — deep black, golden hands, sub-seconds: it slips under a shirt cuff like an evening watch, at the entry budget of authentic vintage. A piece from the 1960s , more understated and rarer than the mass-produced output of the following decade.

Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Every vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice Atelier Victor serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical characteristics

  • Brand: Raketa
  • Model: Sub-seconds, black embossed dial, export version
  • Estimated year: 1960s
  • Origin: USSR (Petrodvorets)
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, 16 jewels
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
  • Case: Chrome-plated, round, chrome-plated back
  • Diameter: 33.6mm (35.5mm with crown)
  • Lug to lug: 39.4mm
  • Thickness: 10.1mm
  • Lug width: 18mm
  • Crown: Steel, fluted
  • Dial: Black embossed with raised grid pattern, baton markers, original
  • Hands: Golden, sub-seconds with counterweight, original
  • Crystal: Plexiglass (condition 9/10)
  • Strap: Black crocodile-style leather, not original
  • Buckle: Pin buckle, not original

Condition and guarantee

  • Overall condition: Good state of preservation. The original black dial is crisp, its embossed texture well-defined, with fine signs of age visible from certain angles, shown in our photographs; the golden hands are intact. The chrome-plated case shows wear from use on the lugs and sides. Crystal plexiglass crystal in very beautiful condition.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Mechanical movement checked, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice Atelier Victor
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

What is a sub-seconds display?
A seconds hand that beats on its own small dial, here at six o’clock, instead of a central seconds hand crossing the entire dial. It is the historical architecture of dress watches — inherited from pocket watches — and it gives the dial its classic balance: the large hands for the time, the life of the movement in a discreet circle below. Few Raketa are equipped with it.

What is an embossed dial?
A dial whose surface is struck with a fine raised grid — like the weave of a fabric — catching the light in a subtle checkerboard effect instead of reflecting it uniformly. The texture gives the black its depth and changes with every angle of the wrist. It is workmanship rarely seen on Soviet production, where smooth dials predominated.

Who is Raketa?
The Petrodvorets manufactory, near Saint Petersburg — Russia's oldest factory, founded in 1721 by Peter the Great as the lapidary atelier of the Peterhof Palace. Converted to watchmaking after the war, it took the name Raketa in 1961, “rocket,” in tribute to Gagarin's flight. It produced its calibres entirely in-house — a true manufacture — and still exists today.

How do you wind a hand-wound watch?
Gently turn the crown clockwise, about twenty turns, until you feel resistance. Never force it beyond that point. Daily winding, at the same time each day, is enough to keep the watch running — Petrodvorets calibres are renowned for their robustness.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 33.6mm diameter, 39.4mm Lug-to-lug, and 10.1mm thickness, it suits wrists from approximately 14.5 to 18.5cm — a guide, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. It is the dress format of the sixties, slipping easily under a shirt cuff. The Lug width measures 18mm, making it easy to change the strap.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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Raketa USSR Watch — Embossed Black, Sub-seconds (1960s)
Raketa USSR Watch — Embossed Black, Sub-seconds (1960s) Selling price€330,75

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