Cortébert Sport Watch Steel — Tropical Caramel Dial (1950s)
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Movement guaranteed for 1 year
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Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
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Atelier Note
A dial that the sun has baked to caramel, black numerals that have not shifted upon it, two hands whose lume has turned amber, and the signature of Cortébert, the village whose calibres powered Rolex watches.
A vintage Cortébert Sport Watch from the 1950s, caramel tropical dial in steel
This vintage Cortébert watch bears the name of a village in the Bernese Jura where Abraham-Louis Juillard opened his atelier in 1790. Registered as a trademark in 1855 under a trefoil cross, Cortébert became a fully integrated manufacture, producing ébauches, dials and escapements, known for its railway watches, supplied to the Turkish and Italian networks, and for its calibres: Rolex built its calibre 618, used in Panerai watches of the 1940s, on the Cortébert 616. The Sport line was its robust post-war watch, in steel, with central seconds; this one is a mechanical watch from the 1950s. The house closed in the early 1970s, with the quartz crisis.
Its original dial has developed its color: light at birth, it darkened over the decades to caramel and tobacco, evenly across the entire surface, in what collectors call a tropical dial, and which no other example reproduces. Twelve black Arabic numerals, a minute track numbered in increments of 5, two original syringe hands whose luminescent material has taken on an amber tone, and a slender blued central seconds hand. The Cortébert signature in cursive, Sport beneath, Swiss Made at the bottom.
The steel 29mm case, 36mm Lug-to-lug and 9.8mm thick, is that of a sports watch of its time: polished middle case, straight lugs, steel caseback, beneath an acrylic Crystal; the large fluted crown was replaced during the watch's life. The hand-wound mechanical movement was serviced in 2025 by our partner watchmakers and is guaranteed for one year. The watch is fitted with a black textured leather strap and a steel Buckle, both later additions.
Three points to note
01
Tropical dial — darkened to caramel and tobacco, even, unique to this example.
02
Cortébert, 1790 — the Bernese Jura manufacture of railway watches, whose calibre Rolex adopted.
03
29mm steel Sport — Arabic numerals, luminous syringe hands, central seconds, for her as for him.
Why choose a vintage watch with a tropical dial?
This vintage Cortébert Sport Watch holds a distinct place among men's and women's vintage watches: its 29mm size suits both, and it combines a tropical dial, the patina sought after by collectors, with a manufacture signature. A Swiss manufacture vintage mechanical watch, at an entry-level budget for authentic vintage.
Like all our vintage mechanical watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice Atelier Victor serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime-guaranteed authenticity.
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Technical characteristics
- Brand: Cortébert
- Model: Sport
- Estimated year: 1950s
- Origin: Switzerland (Cortébert, Bernese Jura)
- Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, serviced in 2025
- Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds
- Case: Steel, round, steel caseback
- Diameter: 29mm (32mm with crown)
- Lug to lug: 36mm
- Thickness: 9.8mm
- Lug width: 15mm
- Crown: Fluted steel, not original
- Dial: Tropical, caramel-browned, Arabic numerals, numbered minute track, original
- Hands: Syringe with luminescent channels, patinated, blued seconds hand, original
- Crystal: Acrylic (condition 8/10)
- Strap: Black textured leather, not original
- Buckle: Steel, not original
Condition and guarantee
- Overall condition: Good state of preservation for its age. The original tropical dial is even, its numerals crisp, its hands patinated in the same tone. The steel case shows the signs of wear of a worn watch, which our photographs show without retouching. Crystal acrylic in good condition (8/10).
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Mechanical: Movement serviced in 2025, guaranteed for 1 year
- Included: Invoice Atelier Victor, protective case
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently asked questions
What is a tropical dial?
A dial whose original color, light here, has turned brown over the decades under the effects of light and time, in an even manner: caramel, tobacco, sometimes chocolate. The term comes from collectors, who first observed the phenomenon on watches worn in the tropics. Each tropical dial is unique, and this one has never been restored.
Who is Cortébert?
A manufacture from the Bernese Jura born from the atelier opened by Abraham-Louis Juillard in 1790 in the village of Cortébert, trademark registered in 1855. It produced its own ébauches, dials, and escapements, supplied the Turkish and Italian railways with precision watches, and sold its calibres to other houses. It closed in the early 1970s, with the quartz crisis.
What is the link between Cortébert and Rolex?
Cortébert manufactured its own calibres and supplied them to other houses. Rolex based its calibre 618 on the Cortébert 616; this 16-ligne movement powers the Panerai watches of the 1940s made by Rolex, references 3646 and onward. This Sport is not one of them, but it comes from the same manufacture.
Has the movement been serviced?
Yes, in 2025, by our partner watchmakers: complete disassembly, cleaning, oiling, and adjustment. It is guaranteed for one year. A hand-wound watch is wound daily, and a vintage watch is not guaranteed water-resistant.
Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 29mm diameter, 36mm Lug-to-lug and 9.8mm thickness, it suits wrists from approximately 14 to 18cm — a guide, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its compact format is that of sports watches from the 1950s, and today it wears just as well on a feminine wrist. The Lug width measures 15mm.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
Free delivery
Delivery is free on all our pieces internationally. Dispatch within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express, Emirates Post, EMS or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination, delivery within 2 to 14 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Collection in Dubai
In-person handover by appointment in Downtown Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product page. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt and are payable by the buyer. Customs inspections may in rare cases extend the delivery time.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.
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