Cartier Santos Galbée Watch 1879 — Gold and Steel (1990s)
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Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU
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Movement guaranteed for 1 year
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Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
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Atelier Note
Born in 1904 on the wrist of an aviator, curved in 1987 to embrace the wrist — the Santos, its visible gold screws, and a century of preserved advance.
A two-tone Santos Galbée, the heiress of 1904
This Cartier watch is a Santos Galbée, reference 1879, produced in the 1990s. Its story begins before all the others: in 1904, Louis Cartier designed for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the first men's wristwatch conceived as such — to read the time in flight without letting go of the controls. The visible screws, an unprecedented industrial gesture in the jewelry of the time, have remained its signature. The Galbée, launched in 1987, is its curved evolution: a curved case that embraces the wrist instead of overhanging it.
The two-tone version combines the case and bracelet in brushed steel with the 18k yellow gold bezel, secured by its eight steel screws — and the bracelet reprises the motif with its gold screws on steel links, the alternation that defined the style of the decade.
The cream dial displays all the house codes: black Roman numerals, central railway minute track, secret signature in the Roman numeral at seven o'clock, blued steel sword hands — and a date window at six o'clock, the position specific to this generation of Galbée. The faceted crown bears its blue cabochon.
The movement is quartz, checked and fitted with a new battery, guaranteed for one year. The original bracelet closes at 16.5cm with its steel folding clasp; additional links may be added on request.
Three points to note
01
The heiress of 1904 — the first pilot's wristwatch in history, with visible screws as its signature.
02
Curved Case — the 1987 curvature that makes steel embrace the wrist, extended by the bracelet with gold screws.
03
Complete original two-tone configuration — 18k gold bezel, bracelet with folding clasp, cabochon crown: the complete period ensemble.
Why choose a vintage Cartier Santos?
This pre-owned Cartier watch occupies a precise place among men's and women's vintage watches: its 29mm case with 41mm of Lug-to-lug can be worn by either, and the Santos has returned to the forefront of contemporary taste — wearing a 1990s Galbée means wearing the original design at a fraction of the price of a new one. Two-tone, long out of fashion, is precisely what the current decade is seeking.
Like all our pre-owned luxury watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every Cartier vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime-guaranteed authenticity.
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Technical characteristics
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Santos Galbée
- Reference: 1879
- Estimated year: 1990s
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Quartz, original
- Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
- Case: Brushed steel, screwed 18k yellow gold bezel, curved case, steel caseback
- Width: 29mm (32.4mm with crown)
- Lug to lug: 41mm
- Thickness: 7mm
- Lug width: 17.5mm (integrated attachment)
- Crown: Faceted with blue cabochon, original
- Dial: Cream, black Roman numerals, date window at 6 o'clock, original
- Hands: Blued steel sword hands, original
- Crystal: Sapphire (condition 7/10, one scratch at 12 o'clock)
- Bracelet: Steel with gold screws, 17cm, additional links available on request, original
- Buckle: Steel folding clasp, original
Condition and guarantee
- General condition: Very well preserved. Clean cream dial, Roman numerals and blued hands without alteration, crisp date window. The case and two-tone bracelet show signs of wear on the brushed steel and gold bezel, visible in our photographs; the bracelet is complete and supple. The sapphire Crystal has a scratch at 12 o'clock, rated 7/10.
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Mechanics: Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year
- Included: Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently asked questions
What is the history of the Cartier Santos?
It is the oldest of modern watchmaking: in 1904, Louis Cartier created for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the first men's wristwatch designed as such — until then, men wore pocket watches, and Santos-Dumont could not let go of his controls in flight. The visible screws on the case, embraced as a design rather than concealed, caused a scandal and then set a precedent. The Santos has never left the catalogue since.
What does "Galbée" mean?
It is the name of the evolution launched in 1987: a curved — cambered — case whose contour follows the wrist instead of resting flat. The difference is felt immediately on the wrist: the watch follows the anatomy, the bracelet falls in line, and the whole becomes effortless to wear. It is the generation that defined the Santos for twenty years, until the current redesign.
Why is the date at six o'clock?
It is the position specific to this generation of quartz Galbée: the aperture sits beneath the minute track, on the vertical axis of the dial, rather than at three o'clock. This symmetry preserves the balance of the Roman numerals — no numeral is cut off at the sides — and identifies the piece as a model from that period, which helps date it at a glance.
Can the bracelet be sized to fit my wrist?
As it stands, it fits a 16.5cm wrist circumference, with its original Buckle deployant clasp. Additional links can be added to enlarge it — let us know your wrist measurement before purchase and we will confirm feasibility. Removing links for slimmer wrists is also possible.
Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
At 29mm wide, 41mm Lug-to-lug to Lug-to-lug, and 7mm thick, it can be worn by both men and women — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. The square Santos wears larger than its dimensions suggest, its integrated lugs extending the case, and the curve keeps the whole close to the wrist.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
Free delivery
Delivery is free on all our pieces internationally. Dispatch within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express, Emirates Post, EMS or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination, delivery within 2 to 14 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Collection in Dubai
In-person handover by appointment in Downtown Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product page. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt and are payable by the buyer. Customs inspections may in rare cases extend the delivery time.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, inspected, and photographed by our team. As each sale is final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos, or a video of the piece in hand — so that you can make your choice with complete peace of mind.
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