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Cartier Panthère Cougar Watch 987904 Steel — Roman (1990s)

Only 1 available


Selling price€2 992,50

Payment by bank transfer: -3%

Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Serviced movement & 1 year warranty

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

The Panthère round, all-steel one — the screwed bezel, the Roman numerals, the blue of the hands: Cartier without a gram of gold, and nothing is missing.

An steel Cougar, the Panthère round in its understated version

This Cartier watch is a Panthère Cougar, reference 987904, produced in the 1990s. Opposite the Panthère carrée, which has become one of the house's emblematic faces, the Cougar is its round variation — less well known, produced for a shorter time, and sought precisely for that reason by lovers of Cartier watches. This one is the all-steel version: the most understated, and the most contemporary.

The steel bezel bears its visible screws, the construction detail that defines the Cougar. The cream dial unfolds all of the house's codes: black Roman numerals, double railway minute track, secret signature in the Roman numeral at seven o'clock, blued steel sword hands, date window — and the crown set with a blue spinel, the stone that Cartier reserved for these lines.

The original integrated bracelet, in brushed and polished steel, flows from the case in articulated links with the suppleness of a chain bracelet — a jeweller's work more than a watchmaker's. It closes at 16.5cm; additional links can be added on request.

The movement is the original Cartier 87 calibre: the quartz movement that the house fitted to the Cougar at its launch, a widely distributed Swiss ébauche dressed in the name of Cartier, whose parts remain available from any watchmaker. Checked and fitted with a new battery, it is guaranteed for one year.

Three points to note

01

The round Panthère, all steel — the most understated version of the Cougar, with a bezel with visible screws.

02

Original Cartier 87 calibre — the house's period quartz movement, checked and guaranteed for one year.

03

Original integrated bracelet — articulated steel with the suppleness of a chain bracelet, signature of the line.

Why choose a vintage Cartier Cougar?

This pre-owned Cartier watch holds a precise place among vintage men's and women's watches: its 33mm round case can be worn as a classic men's watch or as a women's watch with assertive presence, and the all-steel construction makes it an everyday piece — the Cartier that fears neither the shirt cuff nor the rest of the week. The Cougar offers the Panthère design in a version not seen on every wrist.

Like all our pre-owned luxury watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: verification of the movement, examination of the dial, hands and case. Each Cartier vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime-guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical specifications

  • Brand: Cartier
  • Model: Panthère Cougar, large model
  • Reference: 987904
  • Serial number: 0026••
  • Estimated year: 1990s
  • Origin: Switzerland
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Quartz Cartier calibre 87, original
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
  • Case: Steel, bezel with visible screws, steel caseback
  • Diameter: 33mm (35mm with crown)
  • Lug to lug: 38mm
  • Thickness: 6.4mm
  • Lug width: 17mm (integrated attachment)
  • Crown: Set with a blue spinel, original
  • Dial: Cream, black Roman numerals, date window, original
  • Hands: Blued steel sword hands, original
  • Crystal: Sapphire (condition 9/10)
  • Bracelet: Integrated steel, 16.5cm, additional links on request, original
  • Buckle: Folding clasp, original

Condition and guarantee

  • Overall condition: Excellent state of preservation. Crisp cream dial, Roman numerals and blued hands without alteration, clean date window, Crystal sapphire crystal in very fine condition. The case and steel bracelet were probably polished in the past: the surfaces are even, with fine signs of wear visible in our photographs; the bracelet is complete and supple.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Checked quartz movement, new battery, 1-year guarantee
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice, protective case
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

What is the Cartier Cougar?
It is the round variation of the Panthère family, launched by Cartier in the late 1980s and produced throughout the 1990s. It reprises the line's design vocabulary — articulated integrated bracelet, Roman numerals, blued hands — in a round case that softens the design. Produced for a shorter time than the Panthère carrée, it is now the version sought after by enthusiasts who want the style without the ubiquity.

Is the movement the original one?
Yes: this Cougar beats to the rhythm of its period Cartier 87 calibre, the quartz movement that the house fitted to these references when they were released. It is a Swiss ébauche of very wide circulation, finished and signed by Cartier — a construction that still guarantees the availability of parts today with any watchmaker. This one has been checked, fitted with a new battery, and is guaranteed for one year.

Can the bracelet be adjusted to my size?
In its current state, it closes on a 16.5cm wrist circumference. Additional links can be added to enlarge it — let us know your wrist size before purchase and we will confirm feasibility. Removing links for slimmer wrists is also possible, as with any articulated bracelet.

What does the crown feature?
A blue spinel — the stone that Cartier set into the crowns of its Must and Cougar lines, echoing the sapphire of its high-end collections. It has been a house signature for a century: the touch of blue on the side of the case, which here answers the blued hands on the dial.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 33mm diameter, 38mm Lug-to-lug, and 6.4mm thickness, it wears as a classic watch on a man and as a characterful watch on a woman — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. The bracelet closes on 16.5cm and can be enlarged by adding links; its integrated construction keeps the watch close against the wrist.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, inspected, and photographed by our team. As each sale is final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos, or a video of the piece in hand — so that you can make your choice with complete peace of mind.

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