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Cartier Must Vendôme Watch 5900003 Vermeil — Cream Roman Dial (1990s)


Selling price€1,05

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Movement checked & guaranteed for 1 year

International shipping

Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A cream dial encircled by two gold rings, Roman numerals spaced with lozenges — and two blued steel hands, the punctuation of Cartier for a century.

A Vendôme in vermeil, with a cream dial punctuated by lozenges

This Cartier watch belongs to the Must of Cartier, the collection launched at the end of the 1970s to open the house to a new clientele: vermeil watches — sterling silver gold-plated — reprising the historic designs of Cartier. This one is a Vendôme, reference 5900003, recognizable by its brancards: two gold stirrups that hold the strap in line with the round case, a direct legacy of the pocket watches that Cartier transformed into wristwatches at the beginning of the century.

The cream dial is constructed in circles: two concentric gold rings frame the center, and the hour track alternates black Roman numerals at the four cardinal points with openworked lozenges — a graphic punctuation distinctive to the Vendôme of this generation, beneath the signature must de Cartier.

The two blued steel sword hands are the exact counterpoint to this warm background: the deep blue, obtained by heating the steel, is one of the house’s oldest codes. The beaded crown bears its blue cabochon, in echo.

The 30mm case measures only 4.5mm thick, Crystal included — the watch disappears beneath a cuff. The movement is quartz, checked and fitted with a new battery. It is fitted on a black leather strap with Buckle buckle, both later.

Three points to note

01

Cream dial with Roman numerals and lozenges — the circular design of the Vendôme, framed by two gold rings.

02

Blued steel hands — the heat-blued tone, a code of Cartier for a century, echoed by the crown cabochon.

03

Vermeil and 4.5mm thickness — sterling silver gold-plated, with a profile that slips beneath a cuff.

Why choose a vintage Must from Cartier?

This pre-owned Cartier watch holds a precise place among men’s and women’s vintage watches: its 30mm case with 37mm of Lug-to-lug can be worn equally well by both, in the most pared-back dress register. The Must of Cartier are the historic gateway into the house, and the Vendôme with cream dial is its most classic version — the one that passes through changing fashions without ever being touched by them.

Like all our pre-owned luxury watches, this one has been opened and checked by our partner watchmakers: movement verification, inspection of the dial, hands and case. Every Cartier vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year warranty, and lifetime-guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical specifications

  • Brand: Cartier
  • Model: Must of Cartier Vendôme
  • Reference: 5900003
  • Serial number: 0952••
  • Estimated year: 1990s
  • Origin: Switzerland
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Quartz
  • Functions: Hours, minutes
  • Case: Vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver), vermeil caseback, round brancard shape
  • Diameter: 30mm (32.5mm with the crown)
  • Lug to lug: 37mm
  • Thickness: 4.5mm (Crystal included)
  • Lug width: 16mm
  • Crown: Beaded with blue cabochon, original
  • Dial: Cream, black Roman numerals and lozenges, gold lines, original
  • Hands: Blued steel sword, original
  • Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
  • Strap: Black leather, non-original
  • Buckle: Pin buckle, non-original

Condition and warranty

  • Overall condition: Very well preserved condition. The original cream dial is crisp, with Roman numerals, lozenges and gold lines free of alteration, and intact blued hands. The vermeil case shows light signs of wear on the bezel and brancards, visible in our photographs. Crystal in very fine condition.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanics: Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice, travel case
  • Not included: Original box and papers

Frequently asked questions

What is vermeil?
It is sterling silver covered in gold — here, a gold-plated 925 silver case, hallmarked on the back. Vermeil offers the weight and nobility of a solid precious metal, with the color of gold. It is the founding material of the Must of Cartier: it enabled the house to offer true precious-metal watches at a price that opened Cartier to an entire generation.

What is the Vendôme line?
Vendôme refers, at Cartier, to the round brancard case: two stirrups that hold the strap in line with the watch, instead of classic lugs. The design descends from the pocket watches that the house transformed into wristwatches at the beginning of the twentieth century, and its name pays tribute to the Vendôme square. On this Must version, the brancards frame a cream dial designed in circles.

Why are the hands blue?
Because they are made of blued steel: heated to a precise temperature, the steel takes on a deep, stable blue that has been one of Cartier's signatures since the house's beginnings. Against the cream dial, this blue stands out better than black and gives the display an elegance that is immediately recognizable — echoed by the blue cabochon on the crown.

Why does this watch have only two hands?
By design choice: without a seconds hand or aperture, the cream dial preserves its circular design intact, crossed only by the two blued hands. It is the most pared-back expression of Cartier, conceived for a dress watch read at a glance. The quartz movement works exactly like a three-hand watch, with a battery to be changed every two to three years.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 30mm diameter, 37mm Lug-to-lug and a thickness of 4.5mm, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 18cm — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its extreme slimness places it firmly in the dress watch register, wearable by both men and women. The Lug width measures 16mm, making it easy to change the strap.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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