Cartier Must Vendôme 1861 Vermeil — Burgundy Dial Spider (1990s)
Only 1 available
Payment by bank transfer: -3%
Shipping from Europe — taxes and customs duties are the buyer's responsibility outside the EU
Lifetime authenticity guarantee
Serviced movement & 1 year warranty
International shipping
Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist
A question about this piece?
Chat with us on WhatsApp →
Atelier Note
Cartier lacquered this dial in a single burgundy flat tone; time engraved its own there. Two signatures share this watch, and the second is found nowhere else.
A Vendôme in vermeil, with a burgundy dial crackled by time
This Cartier watch belongs to the Must by Cartier, the collection launched in the late 1970s to open the house to a new clientele: vermeil watches — gold-plated sterling silver — reprising the historic designs of Cartier. This one is a Vendôme, reference 1861, recognizable by its brancards: two gold stirrups that hold the strap in line with the round case, a direct legacy of the pocket watches that Cartier transformed into wristwatches at the beginning of the century.
The burgundy dial — the deep Bordeaux shade that Must made their signature color, and which watchmaking usage designates by its English name — is what defines this example. Its lacquer has crackled into a spiderweb pattern over the decades: a spider dial, each crack following its own path, so that no other example in the world bears this one. It is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored.
Against this deep background, almost nothing: the must de Cartier signature, the interlaced double C at six o'clock, the word Swiss, and two gold sword hands. No markers, no numerals — the time is read against the bare burgundy. The beaded crown is set with its dark cabochon.
The 30mm case measures only 4.5mm thick, Crystal included — the watch disappears beneath a cuff. The movement is quartz, checked and fitted with a new battery. It is fitted on a black leather strap with Buckle pin buckle, both later additions.
Three points to note
01
Burgundy spider dial — the signature lacquer of Must, crackled into a spiderweb pattern by time, unique to this example.
02
Case Vendôme with brancards — the pocket-watch-inspired lugs that define this Cartier design.
03
Vermeil and 4.5mm thickness — gold-plated sterling silver, with a profile that slips beneath a cuff.
Why choose a vintage Must by Cartier?
This pre-owned Cartier watch occupies a precise place among men's and women's vintage watches: its 30mm case with 37mm of Lug-to-lug can be worn equally by both, in the most pared-back dress register. The Must by Cartier are the historic gateway to the house, and the colored lacquered dials — burgundy foremost among them — are their most sought-after versions.
Like all our pre-owned luxury watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: verification of the movement, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Every Cartier vintage watch we offer comes with a Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year warranty, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.
→ Discover our Cartier vintage watches
→ View all our vintage watches
Technical specifications
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Must by Cartier Vendôme
- Reference: 1861
- Estimated year: 1990s
- Origin: Switzerland
- Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
- Movement: Quartz
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Case: Vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver), vermeil caseback, round brancard shape
- Diameter: 30mm (32.5mm with the crown)
- Lug to lug: 37mm
- Thickness: 4.5mm (Crystal included)
- Lug width: 16mm
- Crown: Beaded with cabochon, original
- Dial: Lacquered burgundy, spider cracking, without hour markers, original, never restored
- Hands: Gold sword hands, original
- Crystal: Mineral (condition 9/10)
- Strap: Black leather, non-original
- Buckle: Pin buckle, non-original
Condition and warranty
- Overall condition: Good state of preservation. The original burgundy dial bears its spider cracking, spread across the entire surface and fully visible in our photographs; the signature and double C are crisp, and the gold hands are intact. The vermeil case shows fine signs-of-use scratches on the bezel and brancards. Crystal in very beautiful condition.
- Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
- Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
- Mechanics: Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year
- Included: Atelier Victor invoice
- Not included: Original box and papers
Frequently asked questions
What is a spider dial?
It is the name collectors give to lacquered dials whose varnish has cracked into a network of fine lines, like a spider's web. On Must by Cartier from the 1980s and 1990s, the colored lacquers — burgundy first and foremost — evolve in this way over the decades: each dial cracks along its own path, so that no two examples are identical. Far from being disregarded, these dials are actively sought after — it is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored.
What is vermeil?
It is sterling silver covered with gold — here a 925 silver case, gold-plated and hallmarked on the back. Vermeil offers the weight and nobility of a solid precious metal, with the color of gold. It is the foundational material of the Must of Cartier: it allowed the house to offer genuine precious metal watches at a price that opened Cartier to an entire generation.
What is the Vendôme line?
At Cartier, Vendôme refers to the round brancard case: two stirrups that hold the strap in line with the watch, instead of traditional lugs. The design descends from the pocket watches the house converted into wristwatches at the beginning of the twentieth century, and its name pays tribute to the Place Vendôme. On this Must version, the brancards frame a dial in a single block of color.
Why does this watch have only two hands?
By design choice: without a seconds hand, without markers and without numerals, the burgundy dial remains a pure block of color, crossed only by the two gold hands. This is the most streamlined register of Cartier, conceived for a dress watch that is read at a glance. The quartz movement works exactly like a three-hand watch, with a battery to be changed every two to three years.
Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
With a 30mm diameter, 37mm Lug-to-lug and 4.5mm thickness, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 18cm — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its extreme slimness places it firmly in the dress watch category, wearable by both men and women. The Lug width measures 16mm, making it easy to change the strap.
Mechanical warranty — 1 year
Each watch is inspected by our watchmakers before shipping. In case of a mechanism malfunction during the first year, we cover the repair.
Authenticity warranty — lifetime
If a watch turns out to be non-authentic, we will take it back and refund you in full. Without time limit.
What is not covered
- Exposure to water or humidity
- Shocks, impacts, or vibrations
- Consumable parts (strap, Crystal, crown, pushers)
- Battery replacement (quartz movements)
- Opening or disassembly of the watch by a third party
- Improper use
The accuracy of vintage watches varies according to the model, movement, and year of production. A request for accuracy improvement deemed within acceptable tolerances cannot be covered by the warranty.
Shipping fees
After-sales service is free. Shipping fees outside the United Arab Emirates remain the responsibility of the customer.
Authentication Process
Each watch is examined by our partner watchmakers before being offered for sale: verification of authenticity, checking the conformity of the components, identification of any modification or replacement of original parts.
If any element has been replaced during the life of the watch (dial, hands, crown, Crystal, strap), we systematically indicate it in the product sheet. You buy knowing the exact history of your piece.
Certificate of Authenticity
Your Atelier Victor invoice serves as a certificate of authenticity: it attests to the origin and conformity of the piece, and is covered by our lifetime authenticity guarantee — if a piece sold by Atelier Victor were found to be non-authentic, it would be fully refunded, with no time limit.
We accept several payment methods:
- Bank card (Visa, Mastercard, American Express)
- Bank transfer (AED, EUR, USD)
- Cryptocurrency (USDT, USDC)
- PayPal
Other currencies accepted upon request. Exchange fees of approximately 3% may apply.
A 3% discount is granted for any payment by bank transfer from €1,000.
Does the strap not suit you? Add the strap of your choice to your order: we will fit it to your watch before shipment, at no fitting charge.
International Shipping
Shipped within 48 to 72 business hours by DHL Express or an equivalent carrier depending on the destination. Delivery in 2 to 6 business days. Each shipment is insured and delivered against signature.
- Free delivery from €1,000 of purchase, as well as on the Jewelry Atelier Victor
- Tracking number sent as soon as the shipment is dispatched
- For certain destinations, delivery may be made to a secure collection point in order to guarantee the integrity of the shipment
Pickup in Dubai
Hand delivery by appointment in Downtown, Dubai. Make an appointment.
Taxes and Customs
The shipping origin is indicated on each product sheet. If the delivery country differs from the shipping country, customs duties and taxes may apply upon receipt, at the buyer's expense. In exceptional situations, customs checks may extend the delivery time, regardless of our wishes and those of the carrier.
For full details, please consult our shipping policy.
FINAL SALES
All sales are final: no return, exchange, or cancellation is accepted after order confirmation. Each piece is authenticated, inspected, and described in detail before being offered for sale.
BEFORE PURCHASE
Our advisors remain at your disposal for any questions and can send you additional photographs or videos upon simple request, by email or on WhatsApp.
NON-CONFORMING ITEM
In the exceptional case of an item that does not match its listing, please notify us within 72 hours: it will be eligible for a refund or an exchange. If the parcel shows damage upon delivery, it should be refused or its opening filmed continuously.
For full details, please consult our return policy.
A piece selected by Atelier Victor
Authenticated, inspected, and photographed by our team. As each sale is final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos, or a video of the piece in hand — so that you can make your choice with complete peace of mind.
Choose the options
WATCHES BY BUDGET
