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Cartier Panthère Watch 130000C Large Model — Quartz Cream Dial (1990s)


Selling price€1,05

Lifetime authenticity guarantee

Movement checked & guaranteed for 1 year

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Photo taken on a 17.5 cm wrist


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Atelier Note

A bracelet that flows over the wrist like a fabric of steel — and a date window that the Panthère relaunched in 2017 never regained.

The 1990s Panthère, in steel and with date, in its largest size

This Cartier Panthère Watch, reference 130000C, is the large model in steel from the line launched in 1983 — the watch that embodied Cartier in the 1980s and 1990s. Its design stems from the Santos, whose softened square shape and exposed screws it retains, but everything here is made more supple: the angles are rounded, the case middle is slimmed to 6.1mm, and the case blends into its bracelet.

The cream dial features black Roman numerals arranged in a fan shape, a carrée railway minute track, and a date window at three o’clock. The blued steel sword hands and seconds hand cross it, and the secret CARTIER signature is hidden within the numeral VII — one of the model’s classic authenticity checks, visible under magnification in our photographs. The octagonal crown is set with its blue cabochon.

The Panthère bracelet is the true signature of this watch: five rows of brushed links, articulated so tightly that they flow over the wrist like fabric. This one is original, closes with a signed Cartier Buckle folding clasp, and measures 17.5cm. The bezel and caseback are screwed down, in the period construction.

The Panthère left the catalogue in the mid-2000s, before being relaunched in 2017 — but without a date window. This large steel model with date therefore no longer exists in boutiques: it can only be found in vintage. This example comes with its Cartier service papers and a vintage Cartier presentation box — the trace of a documented visit to the house.

Three points to note

01

Large model with date — the configuration that the Panthère relaunched in 2017 no longer offers, in the largest size of the original line.

02

Original Panthère bracelet — five rows as supple as fabric, signed Cartier Buckle folding clasp.

03

Cartier service papers and presentation box — a service documented by the house in 2003, with a vintage Cartier presentation box included with the watch.

Why choose a vintage Cartier Panthère?

This pre-owned Cartier watch holds a precise place among vintage men’s and women’s watches : its 29mm case with a 40mm Lug-to-lug makes it the most substantial Panthère on the wrist, in a register that ranges from tailoring to jeans. It is the quintessential women's Cartier watch of the 1990s, which men wear just as much today — the design was born Unisex.

Like all our pre-owned luxury watches, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: verification of the movement and its consistency with the reference, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Each Cartier vintage watch we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year warranty, and lifetime-guaranteed authenticity.

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Technical specifications

  • Brand: Cartier
  • Model: Panthère large model
  • Reference: 130000C
  • Estimated year: 1990s
  • Origin: Switzerland
  • Gender: Men's and women's watch (Unisex)
  • Movement: Quartz Cartier
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
  • Case: Steel, carrée shape with softened angles, screwed bezel and caseback
  • Width: 29mm (33mm with the crown)
  • Lug to lug: 40mm
  • Thickness: 6.1mm
  • Lug width: 16.5mm
  • Crown: Octagonal with blue cabochon, original
  • Dial: Cream, Roman numerals, railway minute track, secret signature at VII, original
  • Hands: Blued steel sword hands, central seconds hand, original
  • Crystal: Sapphire (condition 9/10)
  • Bracelet: Panthère five-row steel, original, 17.5cm
  • Buckle: Signed Cartier folding clasp, original

Condition and warranty

  • Overall condition: Very well preserved condition. Crisp cream dial, numerals and secret signature intact, blued hands without alteration. The bezel and bracelet show fine signs of wear, visible in our photographs; the bracelet is supple, with no significant play between the links. The watch was polished by Cartier in 2003.
  • Water resistance: Not guaranteed (vintage watch)
  • Authenticity: Lifetime guarantee
  • Mechanical: Quartz movement inspected, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year
  • Included: Atelier Victor invoice, Cartier service papers, Cartier vintage case
  • Not included: Original invoice

Frequently asked questions

What is the Panthère of Cartier?
This is the line that Cartier launched in 1983: a square case with softened corners inherited from the Santos, blended into a link bracelet so supple it wears like a jewel. It embodied the house throughout the 1980s and 1990s before leaving the catalogue, then being reissued in 2017 in a redesigned version. Original examples like this one are distinguished in particular by their date window.

What does "grand modèle" mean?
The Panthère existed in several sizes; the grand modèle, approximately 29mm wide for 40mm Lug-to-lug, is the largest in the original line. It is the one that comes closest to a classic watch format on the wrist, and the only one that comfortably accommodates the date window at three o’clock. The 2017 reissue offers no equivalent with a date.

What is the secret signature?
On Cartier dials, the house name is concealed in microscopic characters within one of the Roman numerals — here in the VII. This detail, invisible to the naked eye, is one of the model’s classic authenticity checks: it requires a fineness of printing that counterfeit pieces reproduce poorly. On this example, the signature is clearly visible under magnification.

What are Cartier service papers?
These are the documents issued by Cartier during servicing carried out by the house — here, a visit to atelier Cartier in 2003, during which the watch was polished by its own artisans. They attest that the piece passed through the hands of the Cartier service department, which works only on authentic watches. Combined with our invoice serving as a certificate, they document its history.

Is this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?
At 29mm wide, 40mm Lug-to-lug, and 6.1mm thick, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 17cm, with the original bracelet closing at 17.5cm — a guide, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its slimness allows it to slip under any cuff, and its supple bracelet hugs the wrist without play.

 

A piece selected by Atelier Victor

Authenticated, checked, and photographed by us. As all sales are final, our team remains available 7 days a week on WhatsApp to answer your questions, share additional photos or a video of the piece in hand — so that your choice can be made with complete peace of mind.

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