Vintage & Pre-Owned Watch Guide Hublot

Carlo Crocco: The Italian Who Shocked Basel

The story of Hublot was initially written through the vision of one man alone: Carlo Crocco, an Italian designer and watchmaker born in Rome. In 1980, he presented his very first creation at the Basel fair (the global gathering for fine watchmaking). His proposal was a provocation: an 18-carat gold case fitted to a black natural rubber strap. The Swiss industry was outraged. Gold, the benchmark noble metal, was traditionally paired only with precious leather or steel. The great manufactures refused to take him seriously.

And yet, the public bypassed the opinion of the purists. The watch, named Hublot (an obvious reference to the shape of its bezel secured by visible screws), instantly appealed to an elite seeking a break from classic codes. King Juan Carlos of Spain was one of the first to wear it. Within a few years, Hublot established itself as a triomphe commercial success, proving that material boldness could create an entirely new watchmaking segment.

Crocco's premise is summed up in a phrase that became famous: "The Art of Fusion". The art of combining materials that stand in complete opposition. Gold and rubber. Luxury and sporting functionality. While this pairing may seem commonplace today, it was utterly avant-garde in 1980. Crocco did not simply create a watch, he invented a genre.

Leading the house until 2004, Crocco then handed over the reins to the LVMH group. Under the direction of Jean-Claude Biver, Hublot launched the Big Bang in 2005, a model with imposing proportions that would redefine the brand for the general public. However, vintage Hublot models (1980-2004) embody an entirely different philosophy: watches of great refinement, driven by design and the purity of materials, far from the ostentation of modern marketing.

The Vintage Hublot Collections

The Original MDM Genève

The MDM Genève (an acronym for "Montre des Montres") is the genesis of the Hublot myth, the exact model presented in Basel in 1980. It stands out with its round case, its bezel with visible screws (the house's architectural signature) and its inseparable black natural rubber strap on Buckle deployant clasp. The 18-carat yellow gold versions remain the most coveted by purists. Historical diameters: 36mm for men and 32mm for women. On the collectors' market, expect between €1000 and €3000 for a gold version, and from €500 to €1200 for steel.

The MDM Chronograph

A more dynamic variation of the MDM, the MDM Chronograph incorporates sub-dials (bicompax or tricompax) and side pushers framing the screw-fastened bezel. Most often powered by the robust ETA Valjoux 7750 calibre, this version pushes the concept of "fusion" to its sportiest conclusion, particularly in its solid gold executions.

The Classic Line

A natural evolution of the MDM in the 1990s and 2000s, the Hublot Classic subtly modernizes the design while preserving its DNA (screw-fastened bezel, rubber). Available in gold, steel, or two-tone, it stands out as the most versatile period Hublot for discreet daily wear.

The Refinement of the Elegant Model

The Hublot Elegant is the most dressy ("dress watch") interpretation in the catalogue. Its slimmer case and clean dial are designed to slip effortlessly under a shirt cuff, offering an exceptionally delicate alternative to contemporary proportions.

The Invention of the Natural Rubber Strap

The natural rubber strap is Hublot's foundational innovation. Before 1980, rubber was confined to utilitarian dive watches. The material developed by Carlo Crocco differs entirely from basic silicone: it is matte, highly supple, and offers superior thermal comfort. For collectors, owning the original strap in well-preserved condition is a major value criterion. Although replacement straps (official or third-party) exist, the patina of a 1990s rubber strap remains the Grail for enthusiasts.

The Calibres Powering Period Hublot Watches

• ETA quartz: The heart of the majority of MDM and Classic models. Simple in operation and requiring minimal maintenance (battery change every 2 to 3 years), it powers the most accessible models.
• ETA 2892-A2: A very high-quality self-winding mechanical movement, slim and extremely reliable, fitted to the three-hand automatic versions.
• ETA Valjoux 7750: The workhorse of the Swiss chronograph industry. Robust, precise, and proven, it powers the MDM Chronographs.

The major advantage of these ETA calibres lies in their watchmaking documentation, which is widely established within the trade.

The Vintage Hublot Watch for Women

Period women's Hublot watches offered a unique sport-chic proposition on the market as early as the 1980s. With their cases measuring between 28mm and 32mm, combining 18-carat gold (sometimes enhanced with a diamond-set bezel) with black rubber, they embodied a relaxed luxury of assertive modernity. Discover our selection of vintage watches for women.

Two Watchmaking Eras: Vintage versus Big Bang

The world of collecting clearly distinguishes between two visions:

• The Crocco era (1980-2004): Clean-lined watches, measuring from 32mm to 38mm. The innovation lies in the concept (gold and rubber) rather than in ostentatious proportions.
• The Biver / Big Bang era (since 2005): Massive cases (44mm to 45mm ), hyper-technical materials (sapphire, carbon) and highly visible marketing.

Vintage Hublot pieces therefore appeal to aesthetes seeking pioneering elegance and the discretion of a foundational intellectual design.

The Expertise and Authentication of Atelier Victor

Authenticating a classic Hublot requires meticulous attention:

• The bezel and its screws: The brand's visual signature, the screws must display perfect alignment and crisp machining (counterfeits often reveal themselves through poor-quality metal).
• The typography: The dial must bear the inscriptions "Hublot" and "Genève" (or "MDM Genève" on the earliest editions) in a typeface specific to the production period.
• The caseback: The caseback must feature the engraved serial and reference numbers, as well as the legal hallmarks (750) for gold models.

At Atelier Victor, our master watchmakers open, inspect, and service each watch. Every watch is delivered with a 1-year mechanical warranty and authenticity guaranteed for life.

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Frequently Asked Questions — Vintage Hublot Watches

The legacy of Carlo Crocco

Carlo Crocco, a visionary Italian watchmaker, defied the conventions of Swiss watchmaking in 1980 by pairing gold with rubber. At the helm of Hublot for 24 years, he established "the Art of Fusion" and created watches of rare elegance, driven by material innovation before selling his brand to LVMH in 2004.

The maritime origin of the name Hublot

The name "Hublot" is a direct tribute to the watch's design. Its circular bezel, punctuated by visible screws, is a direct aesthetic transposition of the windows (portholes) of great transatlantic ships. This visual code has remained the unalterable DNA of the manufacture.

Replacing the rubber strap

While the manufacture and third-party craftsmen offer excellent replacement straps, discerning collectors will always favor a watch that retains its original strap. As the natural rubber of the 1980s/90s tends to stiffen over the decades, a perfectly preserved period strap represents a genuine added value.

The calibres powering period models

Unlike modern UNICO manufacture calibres, the MDM and Classic generation relies exclusively on Swiss ETA movements (quartz, 2892-A2, or Valjoux 7750). This historical industrial choice is now a boon, ensuring recognized reliability and greatly simplified servicing.

The particular appeal of gold models

Acquiring an 18-carat gold MDM means owning the founding concept of Hublot in its purest expression. Like pieces by Piaget or Corum, solid gold ensures enduring intrinsic value, often offered in vintage at prices far below the new-watch market.

The evolution of financial value

The Atelier Victor favors watchmaking passion and pleasure on the wrist. The growing interest in original gold MDM models or period Chronographs is undeniable, driven by the renewed appeal of modest diameters (36mm). Above all, we guide you toward the piece that will resonate perfectly with your lifestyle and your mechanical expectations.

Discover our other selections of fine watchmaking: Omega vintage, pre-owned Cartier, IWC vintage, and Piaget vintage. Browse our entire archival watch catalog.

A request for an appraisal of a Hublot MDM or purchasing advice? Our master watchmakers are at your disposal via WhatsApp or by email.