{"product_id":"montre-universal-geneve-543720-plaque-or-coussin-dor-1980s","title":"Vintage Watch Universal Genève 543720 Gold-Plated — Gilt Cushion (1980s) ","description":"\u003ch2\u003eUniversal Genève gold-plated: the petite Swiss dress watch with a cushion case and golden dial\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis watch bears one of the most respected signatures in Swiss watchmaking. \u003cstrong\u003eUniversal Genève\u003c\/strong\u003e, founded in 1894 in Le Locle, is the house of the \u003cstrong\u003ePolerouter\u003c\/strong\u003e designed in 1954 by a twenty-three-year-old Gérald Genta, of the first micro-rotor in history, and of the Compax and Tri-Compax chronographs. In the 1960s, it was nicknamed \u003cstrong\u003e“the watchmaker of the watch”\u003c\/strong\u003e. This example is a \u003cstrong\u003ewomen's dress watch\u003c\/strong\u003e with a gold-plated cushion case, measuring 25.4mm (27.5mm with the crown) for a \u003cstrong\u003eLug-to-lug\u003c\/strong\u003e of 28.5mm and a thickness of 5.85mm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003esunburst gold dial\u003c\/strong\u003e radiates from its center, shifting in intensity according to the angle of light. Twelve applied blackened baton hour markers punctuate the perimeter, with no numerals or railroad track. The \u003cstrong\u003ehorseshoe “U” logo\u003c\/strong\u003e, emblem of \u003cstrong\u003eUniversal Genève\u003c\/strong\u003e, crowns the house signature; the Quartz mention sits at the bottom of the dial, with SWISS at the base. Two blackened baton hands are all that is needed: no seconds hand, no date, only the interplay of gold and black.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInside beats a \u003cstrong\u003eSwiss quartz movement\u003c\/strong\u003e with two hands. It must be said honestly: this piece belongs to the period when Universal Genève, hit by the quartz crisis, was trying to survive thanks to this technology. It is neither a \u003cstrong\u003ePolerouter\u003c\/strong\u003e nor a Compax. It is, however, an \u003cstrong\u003eaffordable entry point\u003c\/strong\u003e into a brand that has become difficult to access. The movement of this example has been checked by our watchmaker and the battery replaced before shipping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the wrist, the piece plays the card of a \u003cstrong\u003ede ville jewel\u003c\/strong\u003e. The gold cushion, with solid flanks and slender, curved lugs, captures the light through its curves alone, with no bezel or applied ornament. It is fitted on a black \u003cstrong\u003ecrocodile-style leather\u003c\/strong\u003e strap, with a \u003cstrong\u003eBuckle\u003c\/strong\u003e pin buckle, which is not original but respects the sobriety of the whole. The \u003cstrong\u003eLug width\u003c\/strong\u003e of 15mm points the choice of replacement straps toward narrower widths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThree points to note\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUniversal Genève was acquired at the end of 2023 by the group owning Breitling, with a relaunch of the brand in 2026: a context that renews interest in its vintage pieces.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThis is a quartz model from the house’s decline period, not a \u003cstrong\u003ePolerouter\u003c\/strong\u003e or a Compax. We prefer to state this clearly: that is what explains its accessibility.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThe case is gold-plated, not solid gold: repeated rubbing against a bracelet or a rigid band should be avoided.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-universal-geneve-vintage\"\u003eDiscover our vintage Universal Genève watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-500-1000\"\u003eSee our vintage watches from €500 to €1,000\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnical specifications\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Universal Genève\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cushion dress watch\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReference:\u003c\/strong\u003e 543720\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstimated year:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1980s\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switzerland\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGender:\u003c\/strong\u003e Women's watch\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Swiss quartz\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFunctions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hours, minutes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase:\u003c\/strong\u003e Gold-plated (steel caseback), cushion shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e  25.4mm (27.5mm with the crown)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase to case:\u003c\/strong\u003e 28.5mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThickness:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5.85mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug width:\u003c\/strong\u003e 15mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrown:\u003c\/strong\u003e Gold-plated, fluted, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sunburst gilt, applied blackened baton indexes, \"U\" logo Universal Genève, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHands:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blackened baton hands (hours, minutes), original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrystal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mineral, very good condition (9\/10)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBracelet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black crocodile-style leather, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuckle:\u003c\/strong\u003e Buckle, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCondition and guarantee\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOverall condition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Very fine state of preservation. Impeccable sunburst gilt dial, clear hands and indexes. The gold plating shows fine superficial signs of wear, consistent with the age of the piece.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater resistance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not guaranteed (vintage watch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAuthenticity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifetime guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Checked quartz movement, new battery, one-year warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/strong\u003e Atelier Victor invoice, protective case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Original box and papers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFrequently asked questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is Universal Genève?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA Swiss watchmaking house founded in 1894 in Le Locle, long regarded as one of the greats. It is behind the Polerouter of 1954, designed by a then twenty-three-year-old Gérald Genta, the first micro-rotor movement in history, the Compax and Tri-Compax chronographs, and the Golden Shadow of 1966, which housed the flattest automatic movement in the world. In the 1960s, it was nicknamed “the couturier of the watch”.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy is this Universal Genève affordable?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eBecause it is a quartz model from the period when the maison, hit by the quartz crisis, was trying to survive thanks to this technology. It is neither a Polerouter nor a Compax, whose prices reach several thousand euros. It is, however, an honest entry point into a brand that has become hard to access, with a dial signature that alone is worth the detour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat has become of the Universal Genève brand today?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt is being reborn. After belonging to the Hong Kong group Stelux since 1989, the brand was acquired at the end of 2023 by Partners Group, the group that controls Breitling, with the stated ambition of restoring its standing. The formal relaunch took place in 2026, driven by a new Polerouter and an in-house micro-rotor caliber. A context that renews interest in the maison's vintage pieces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this Universal Genève water-resistant?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eNo. Water resistance is never guaranteed on a vintage watch: the original seals have aged and the pressure on the caseback is no longer what it was on day one. Avoid the shower, the pool and the sea. A simple contact with rainwater, however, does not pose any difficulty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this watch suitable for a small wrist?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eYes, absolutely. With a 25.4mm cushion case and a 28.5mm Lug-to-lug, it is a delicately sized watch, made for a slim wrist. Its restrained 5.85mm thickness allows it to slip under a cuff without the slightest discomfort. The 15mm Lug width calls for slim straps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e ","brand":"Universal Genève","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":54323580043601,"sku":"543720 3712491","price":395.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0703\/8576\/2597\/files\/VD_04759.jpg?v=1784199617","url":"https:\/\/ateliervictor.co\/en\/products\/vintage-universal-geneve-543720-gold-plated-gold-cushion-1980s","provider":"Atelier Victor","version":"1.0","type":"link"}