{"product_id":"cartier-must-vendome-590004-vermeil-cadran-noir-spider-1990s","title":"Cartier Must Vendôme Watch 590004 Vermeil — Black Dial Spider (1990s) ","description":"\u003cdiv style=\"margin: 28px 0; padding: 22px 12px; border-bottom: 1px solid #e2ddd5; text-align: center;\"\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 10px; font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: 0.5;\"\u003eAtelier Note\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0; font-style: italic; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.7;\"\u003eA black lacquer with not a single marker, not a single numeral — and under the light, a spiderweb that forty years have woven into the varnish. No other dial bears this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eA Vendôme in vermeil, with a black spider dial\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cstrong\u003eCartier watch\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the \u003cstrong\u003eMust of Cartier\u003c\/strong\u003e, the collection launched in the late 1970s to open the house to a new clientele: \u003cstrong\u003evermeil\u003c\/strong\u003e watches — sterling silver gold-plated — reviving the historic designs of Cartier. This one is a \u003cstrong\u003eVendôme\u003c\/strong\u003e, reference \u003cstrong\u003e590004\u003c\/strong\u003e, recognizable by its \u003cstrong\u003ebrancards\u003c\/strong\u003e: two gold stirrups that hold the strap in line with the round case, a direct legacy of the pocket watches that Cartier transformed into wristwatches at the beginning of the century.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eblack dial\u003c\/strong\u003e combines two rarities. First, it is the most radical of Must designs: no markers, no numerals — only the \u003cem\u003emust de Cartier\u003c\/em\u003e signature, the interlaced double C and two \u003cstrong\u003egold sword hands\u003c\/strong\u003e on the bare lacquer. And it is a \u003cstrong\u003espider\u003c\/strong\u003e dial: its lacquer has \u003cstrong\u003ecrackled into a spiderweb pattern\u003c\/strong\u003e over the decades, a network of fine lines that appears only in raking light and that each example weaves along its own path. It is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored — the one sought after by collectors of Must.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ebeaded crown\u003c\/strong\u003e bears its dark \u003cstrong\u003ecabochon\u003c\/strong\u003e, the only relief in the profile. The vermeil case, so slim it slips beneath any cuff, extends the black of the dial through the gold of its brancards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe movement is \u003cstrong\u003equartz\u003c\/strong\u003e, checked and fitted with a new battery. The watch is fitted with a later anthracite grey lizard-style leather strap with blue topstitching, with Buckle pin buckle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eThree points to note\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"margin: 20px 0; padding-left: 16px; border-left: 1px solid #e2ddd5;\"\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e01\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 18px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack spider dial\u003c\/strong\u003e — lacquer crackled into a spiderweb pattern by time, unique to this example and sought after by collectors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e02\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 18px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWithout a single marker\u003c\/strong\u003e — the most radical design among the Must: bare lacquer, two gold hands, nothing else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e03\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCase Vendôme in vermeil\u003c\/strong\u003e — brancards in the spirit of a pocket watch, in gold-plated sterling silver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eWhy choose a vintage Must from Cartier?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned Cartier watch\u003c\/strong\u003e holds a precise place among \u003cstrong\u003evintage watches\u003c\/strong\u003e: the \u003cstrong\u003eMust of Cartier\u003c\/strong\u003e  are the historic gateway to the house, and lacquered dials are their most sought-after versions — a spider is not chosen from a catalogue; time must have woven it, and no two examples are ever identical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike all our \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned luxury watches\u003c\/strong\u003e, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: movement check, examination of the dial, hands and case. Every \u003cstrong\u003eCartier vintage watch\u003c\/strong\u003e we offer comes with an Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year guarantee, and lifetime authenticity guaranteed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-cartier-vintage\" title=\"Montres Cartier Vintage\"\u003eDiscover our Cartier vintage watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-collection-occasion-luxe\" title=\"Montres Vintage de Luxe\"\u003eView all our vintage watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eTechnical specifications\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cartier\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e Must by Cartier Vendôme\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReference:\u003c\/strong\u003e 590004\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSerial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstimated year:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1990s\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switzerland\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGender:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed according to size\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Quartz\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFunctions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hours, minutes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver), vermeil caseback, round brancard-shaped form\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDiameter:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug to lug:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThickness:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug width:\u003c\/strong\u003e to be confirmed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrown:\u003c\/strong\u003e Beaded with cabochon, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black lacquered, spider cracking, without hour markers, original, never restored\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHands:\u003c\/strong\u003e Gold sword hands, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrystal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mineral (condition to be confirmed)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrap:\u003c\/strong\u003e Anthracite grey lizard-style leather, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuckle:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pin buckle, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eCondition and guarantee\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOverall condition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Good state of preservation. The original black dial bears its spider cracking, spread across the surface and visible in raking light in our photographs; the signature and double C are crisp, and the gold hands are intact. The vermeil case shows fine signs of wear on the bezel and brancards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater resistance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not guaranteed (vintage watch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAuthenticity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifetime guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMechanics:\u003c\/strong\u003e Checked quartz movement, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/strong\u003e Atelier Victor invoice\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Original box and papers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eFrequently asked questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is a spider dial?\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThis is the name collectors give to lacquered dials whose varnish has cracked into a network of fine lines, like a spider's web. On the Must of Cartier from the 1980s and 1990s, the lacquers evolve in this way over the decades: each dial cracks along its own path, so that no example is identical to another. Far from being discarded, these dials are actively sought after — it is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow is the time read without hour markers?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eBy the position of the hands alone — exactly as one reads a station clock from afar. The brain needs neither numerals nor markers to place two hands on a disc: after a few hours of wear, reading it is as immediate as on a classic dial. That is the premise of this design, and it has held true for forty years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is vermeil?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt is sterling silver covered with gold — a 925 silver case gold-plated, hallmarked on the caseback. Vermeil offers the weight and nobility of a solid precious metal, with the color of gold. It is the founding material of the Must of Cartier: it allowed the house to offer true precious-metal watches at a price that opened Cartier to an entire generation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the Vendôme line?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAt Cartier, Vendôme refers to the round brancard case: two stirrups that hold the strap in line with the watch, instead of conventional lugs. The design descends from the pocket watches the house converted into wristwatches at the beginning of the twentieth century, and its name pays tribute to Place Vendôme. On this Must version, the brancards frame a field of black lacquer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this piece suitable for a slim or broad wrist?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWe can confirm the exact dimensions of this example on request — the Vendôme sits close to the wrist thanks to its brancards, which hold the strap in line with the case, and its slimness lets it slip under any cuff. A point of reference, never a rule: everyone wears what they please.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u0026nbsp;\u003c\/p\u003e ","brand":"Cartier","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":54794551001425,"sku":"serial:18.049676","price":1680.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0703\/8576\/2597\/files\/VD_07128.jpg?v=1788517886","url":"https:\/\/ateliervictor.co\/en\/products\/cartier-must-vendome-watch-590004-vermeil-black-dial-spider-1990s","provider":"Atelier Victor","version":"1.0","type":"link"}