{"product_id":"montre-cartier-must-vendome-590004-vermeil-cadran-noir-1990s","title":"Cartier Must Watch Vendôme 590004 — Vermeil Black Dial (1990s) ","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe vermeil Cartier and the contrast of the black dial\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Must watch by Cartier Vendôme, reference 590004, is equally suited to a woman or a man with a slim wrist, with a 24mm round vermeil case that encapsulates the full design vocabulary of the maison. The barrow-shaped lugs, screwed on either side of the case middle, are the signature of the Vendôme model: they extend the case rather than being attached to it, and give the whole a continuity that few round watches achieve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe black lacquered dial bears twelve white Roman numerals, framed by a railway minute track. The signature \u003cem\u003emust de Cartier\u003c\/em\u003e appears below XII, with the mention \u003cem\u003eSWISS\u003c\/em\u003e at six o’clock. Two silver-toned sword hands are sufficient for reading the time: no seconds hand, no date window, no superfluous indication. This contrast between the deep black of the dial and the gold of the case middle distinguishes this variant from the cream and silvered versions, which are markedly more common.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lacquer on this dial shows a fine network of cracks, a phenomenon collectors refer to as a \u003cem\u003espider\u003c\/em\u003e dial. It results from the natural ageing of Cartier lacquers from this period, whose slow contraction causes these micro-fissures to appear. They remain discreet at wearing distance and are visible only in raking light or under magnification. Some enthusiasts seek them out as a sign of an original dial; we mention them here so that you know exactly what you are buying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe fluted crown is set with a black cabochon, another immediate hallmark of the maison. The caseback is screwed, and the construction is in vermeil: solid 925 silver covered with a layer of gold. It is neither plating over brass nor solid gold — the base is a precious metal, which explains the particular presence and weight of these cases. The Must line, launched at the end of the 1970s, was the maison’s entry point without compromise on design.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThree points to note\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBlack dial variant\u003c\/strong\u003e — markedly less common than the cream or silvered versions, it offers an immediate contrast with the golden case middle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpider dial\u003c\/strong\u003e — the lacquer shows a fine network of cracks due to ageing, visible in raking light and characteristic of an untouched dial.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVermeil construction\u003c\/strong\u003e — solid 925 silver covered with gold, the original construction of Must watches by Cartier, to be distinguished from simple plating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-cartier-vintage\"\u003eDiscover our vintage Cartier watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-1000-2000\"\u003eView our vintage watches from €1000 to €2000\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnical specifications\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cartier\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vendôme (Must line by Cartier)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReference:\u003c\/strong\u003e 590004\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstimated year:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1990s\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switzerland\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGender:\u003c\/strong\u003e Women's watch\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Quartz\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFunctions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hours, minutes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vermeil (solid 925 silver gold-plated), round shape, Vendôme lugs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase back:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vermeil, screwed\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e 24mm (27mm with crown)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug to lug:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThickness:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5mm (Crystal included)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug width:\u003c\/strong\u003e 14mm\u003c\/li\u003e \n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrown:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fluted, black cabochon, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black lacquered, Roman numerals, railway minute track, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHands:\u003c\/strong\u003e Silver-toned sword hands, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrystal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mineral, in very good condition (9\/10)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrap:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black lizard-style leather, not original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuckle:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pin buckle, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCondition and warranty\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOverall condition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Good overall condition. The Crystal is in very good condition (9\/10), and the dial retains all its legibility. The dial lacquer shows a fine crackling known as spider, visible in raking light, due to the natural aging of the material. The vermeil case bears marks and scratches from use, particularly on the bezel, consistent with the age of the piece.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater resistance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not guaranteed (vintage watch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAuthenticity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifetime guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMechanics:\u003c\/strong\u003e Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/strong\u003e Atelier Victor invoice, protective case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Original box and papers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFrequently asked questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is a spider dial, and should it be a concern?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe term refers to the fine network of cracks that appears over time in the lacquers of Cartier dials. It results from the slow contraction of the varnish over several decades and affects neither legibility, nor the durability of the printing, nor the functioning of the watch. The phenomenon is stable and well documented on pieces from this period. It indicates an original dial, never restored or repainted, which is precisely what some collectors seek.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the Must line by Cartier?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe Must collection by Cartier was born in the late 1970s, conceived as the house's more accessible line, without sacrificing its style. Its guiding idea was vermeil: sterling silver covered with gold, offering the radiance of gold for a fraction of its price. The Vendôme model, with its lugs shaped like screwed brancards, is one of its purest and most recognizable expressions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is vermeil?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eVermeil is sterling silver, here 925 silver, covered with a layer of gold. It is neither gold-plated brass nor solid gold: the base is a precious metal, silver, which distinguishes vermeil from simple plating. This is the original construction of Must watches by Cartier, attesting to their quality and character.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this Cartier water-resistant?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eNo. Water resistance is never guaranteed on a vintage watch: the original gaskets have aged, and the caseback pressure is no longer what it was on day one. Avoid the shower, pool, and sea. Brief contact with rainwater, however, is not a problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat wrist is this watch suitable for?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith a 24mm case and a 30mm Lug-to-lug, this Must Vendôme is a delicately proportioned piece, made for slim to medium wrists. Clearly intended to be worn by a woman, it remains convincing on a slim male wrist, especially in its black dial version, which is more understated. Its 5mm thickness makes it an exceptionally slender watch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e ","brand":"Cartier","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":54575016018257,"sku":"18.025535","price":1774.5,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0703\/8576\/2597\/files\/VD_05611.jpg?v=1786708375","url":"https:\/\/ateliervictor.co\/en\/products\/cartier-must-vendome-watch-590004-vermeil-black-dial-1990s","provider":"Atelier Victor","version":"1.0","type":"link"}