{"product_id":"cartier-must-vendome-1861-vermeil-cadran-burgundy-spider-1990s","title":"Cartier Must Vendôme 1861 Vermeil — Burgundy Dial Spider (1990s)","description":"\u003cdiv style=\"margin: 28px 0; padding: 22px 12px; border-bottom: 1px solid #e2ddd5; text-align: center;\"\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 10px; font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: 0.5;\"\u003eAtelier Note\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0; font-style: italic; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.7;\"\u003eCartier lacquered this dial in a single burgundy flat tone; time engraved its own there. Two signatures share this watch, and the second is found nowhere else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eA Vendôme in vermeil, with a burgundy dial crackled by time\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cstrong\u003eCartier watch\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the \u003cstrong\u003eMust by Cartier\u003c\/strong\u003e, the collection launched in the late 1970s to open the house to a new clientele: \u003cstrong\u003evermeil\u003c\/strong\u003e watches — gold-plated sterling silver — reprising the historic designs of Cartier. This one is a \u003cstrong\u003eVendôme\u003c\/strong\u003e, reference \u003cstrong\u003e1861\u003c\/strong\u003e, recognizable by its \u003cstrong\u003ebrancards\u003c\/strong\u003e: two gold stirrups that hold the strap in line with the round case, a direct legacy of the pocket watches that Cartier transformed into wristwatches at the beginning of the century.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eburgundy dial\u003c\/strong\u003e — the deep Bordeaux shade that Must made their signature color, and which watchmaking usage designates by its English name — is what defines this example. Its lacquer has \u003cstrong\u003ecrackled into a spiderweb pattern\u003c\/strong\u003e over the decades: a \u003cstrong\u003espider\u003c\/strong\u003e dial, each crack following its own path, so that no other example in the world bears this one. It is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst this deep background, almost nothing: the \u003cem\u003emust de Cartier\u003c\/em\u003e signature, the interlaced double C at six o'clock, the word \u003cem\u003eSwiss\u003c\/em\u003e, and two \u003cstrong\u003egold sword hands\u003c\/strong\u003e. No markers, no numerals — the time is read against the bare burgundy. The beaded crown is set with its dark \u003cstrong\u003ecabochon\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e30mm\u003c\/strong\u003e case measures only \u003cstrong\u003e4.5mm thick\u003c\/strong\u003e, Crystal included — the watch disappears beneath a cuff. The movement is \u003cstrong\u003equartz\u003c\/strong\u003e, checked and fitted with a new battery. It is fitted on a black leather strap with Buckle pin buckle, both later additions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eThree points to note\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"margin: 20px 0; padding-left: 16px; border-left: 1px solid #e2ddd5;\"\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e01\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 18px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBurgundy spider dial\u003c\/strong\u003e — the signature lacquer of Must, crackled into a spiderweb pattern by time, unique to this example.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e02\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 18px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCase Vendôme with brancards\u003c\/strong\u003e — the pocket-watch-inspired lugs that define this Cartier design.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0 0 4px; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0.1em; opacity: 0.45;\"\u003e03\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"margin: 0;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVermeil and 4.5mm thickness\u003c\/strong\u003e — gold-plated sterling silver, with a profile that slips beneath a cuff.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eWhy choose a vintage Must by Cartier?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned Cartier watch\u003c\/strong\u003e occupies a precise place among \u003cstrong\u003emen's and women's vintage watches\u003c\/strong\u003e: its 30mm case with 37mm of Lug-to-lug can be worn equally by both, in the most pared-back dress register. The \u003cstrong\u003eMust by Cartier\u003c\/strong\u003e  are the historic gateway to the house, and the colored lacquered dials — burgundy foremost among them — are their most sought-after versions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike all our \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned luxury watches\u003c\/strong\u003e, this one has been opened and inspected by our partner watchmakers: verification of the movement, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Every \u003cstrong\u003eCartier vintage watch\u003c\/strong\u003e we offer comes with a Atelier Victor invoice serving as a certificate, a one-year warranty, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-cartier-vintage\" title=\"Vintage Cartier Watches\"\u003eDiscover our Cartier vintage watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-collection-occasion-luxe\" title=\"Luxury Vintage Watches\"\u003eView all our vintage watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eTechnical specifications\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cartier\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e Must by Cartier Vendôme\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReference:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1861\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstimated year:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1990s\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switzerland\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGender:\u003c\/strong\u003e Men's and women's watch (Unisex)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Quartz\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFunctions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hours, minutes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver), vermeil caseback, round brancard shape\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDiameter:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30mm (32.5mm with the crown)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug to lug:\u003c\/strong\u003e 37mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThickness:\u003c\/strong\u003e 4.5mm (Crystal included)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug width:\u003c\/strong\u003e 16mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrown:\u003c\/strong\u003e Beaded with cabochon, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lacquered burgundy, spider cracking, without hour markers, original, never restored\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHands:\u003c\/strong\u003e Gold sword hands, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrystal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mineral (condition 9\/10)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrap:\u003c\/strong\u003e Black leather, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuckle:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pin buckle, non-original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eCondition and warranty\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOverall condition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Good state of preservation. The original burgundy dial bears its spider cracking, spread across the entire surface and fully visible in our photographs; the signature and double C are crisp, and the gold hands are intact. The vermeil case shows fine signs-of-use scratches on the bezel and brancards. Crystal in very beautiful condition.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater resistance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not guaranteed (vintage watch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAuthenticity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifetime guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMechanics:\u003c\/strong\u003e Quartz movement checked, new battery, guaranteed for 1 year\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/strong\u003e Atelier Victor invoice\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Original box and papers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 style=\"margin: 40px 0 16px;\"\u003eFrequently asked questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is a spider dial?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt is the name collectors give to lacquered dials whose varnish has cracked into a network of fine lines, like a spider's web. On Must by Cartier from the 1980s and 1990s, the colored lacquers — burgundy first and foremost — evolve in this way over the decades: each dial cracks along its own path, so that no two examples are identical. Far from being disregarded, these dials are actively sought after — it is a patina born of time, on an authentic dial that has never been restored.\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is vermeil?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt is sterling silver covered with gold — here a 925 silver case, gold-plated and hallmarked on the back. Vermeil offers the weight and nobility of a solid precious metal, with the color of gold. It is the foundational material of the Must of Cartier: it allowed the house to offer genuine precious metal watches at a price that opened Cartier to an entire generation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is the Vendôme line?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAt Cartier, Vendôme refers to the round brancard case: two stirrups that hold the strap in line with the watch, instead of traditional lugs. The design descends from the pocket watches the house converted into wristwatches at the beginning of the twentieth century, and its name pays tribute to the Place Vendôme. On this Must version, the brancards frame a dial in a single block of color.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhy does this watch have only two hands?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eBy design choice: without a seconds hand, without markers and without numerals, the burgundy dial remains a pure block of color, crossed only by the two gold hands. This is the most streamlined register of Cartier, conceived for a dress watch that is read at a glance. The quartz movement works exactly like a three-hand watch, with a battery to be changed every two to three years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this piece suitable for a slim or larger wrist?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith a 30mm diameter, 37mm Lug-to-lug and 4.5mm thickness, it suits wrists of approximately 15 to 18cm — a guideline, never a rule: everyone wears what they like. Its extreme slimness places it firmly in the dress watch category, wearable by both men and women. The Lug width measures 16mm, making it easy to change the strap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e ","brand":"Cartier","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":54765123731793,"sku":"17 054751","price":1764.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0703\/8576\/2597\/files\/VD_06925.jpg?v=1788263760","url":"https:\/\/ateliervictor.co\/en\/products\/cartier-must-vendome-1861-vermeil-burgundy-dial-spider-1990s","provider":"Atelier Victor","version":"1.0","type":"link"}