{"product_id":"montre-baume-mercier-vintage-or-14k-cornes-en-pont-1950s","title":"Baume \u0026 Mercier Vintage Watch 14k Gold — Bridge Lugs (1950s) ","description":"\u003ch2\u003eSolid gold and bridge lugs in a Swiss dress watch from the 1950s\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis Baume \u0026amp; Mercier watch can be worn equally well by a man or a woman, with a 34mm 14-carat gold case whose lugs form a bridge above the strap. This construction, characteristic of high-end dress watchmaking of the 1950s, spans the leather rather than pinching it between two visible spring bars: the watch thus appears to rest on the wrist with no visible attachment. Fully dressed and without a strap, it weighs 28.6 grams, which is immediately محسوس when worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe silvered dial is read in two zones. An outer guilloché ring, worked in successive fan motifs, catches the light in bands and frames a satin-finished center left bare. Twelve applied gold baton markers and dauphine hands, in the same metal, stand out clearly against it. The signature \u003cem\u003eBaume \u0026amp; Mercier Genève\u003c\/em\u003e and the maison’s star occupy the upper section, with no other inscription.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeneath this dial beats a movement signed \u003cstrong\u003eBaume \u0026amp; Mercier\u003c\/strong\u003e, built on the ETA 1080 base: a 17-jewel hand-wound movement beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The signature on the movement is not a formality — it indicates that the caliber was delivered to the maison under its own specifications, adjusted and finished for it, and not simply purchased from a catalog. Introduced in 1950, the ETA 1080 served as the reference architecture for almost all manual movements of the decade, and it was on this base that ETA built its first automatic. It features \u003cstrong\u003ehacking seconds\u003c\/strong\u003e: pulling the crown stops the seconds hand, allowing synchronized time-setting to the exact second — a rare function on a serially produced caliber of this period.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBaume \u0026amp; Mercier belongs to the small number of Geneva maisons founded before 1850 that are still active today. Its productions of the 1950s belong to a classical dress watchmaking tradition, without complications or ostentatious signs, where value lies in the case work, the quality of the dial, and the choice of caliber. With 43mm of Lug-to-lug and 9mm thickness, this piece sits on the wrist with authority despite its measured diameter, while remaining slim enough to slip under a cuff.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThree points to note\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase in solid 14-carat gold\u003c\/strong\u003e — a precious metal in solid form, not to be confused with the gold-plating or gold-filled construction often found on pieces from this period.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBridge lugs\u003c\/strong\u003e — they span the strap and hold it from above, a construction characteristic of dress watchmaking of the 1950s.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBaume \u0026amp; Mercier-signed caliber\u003c\/strong\u003e — built on the ETA 1080 base, adjusted and finished to the maison’s specifications, with hacking seconds.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhy choose a vintage solid gold watch?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuying a \u003cstrong\u003evintage gold watch\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than a new model means gaining access to a historic Swiss maison at a budget unrelated to the boutique, with a piece whose construction has already stood the test of seventy years. Solid gold also stands apart from plating, very common on \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned luxury watches\u003c\/strong\u003e from this period: where plating eventually wears away and reveals the base metal, a solid gold case retains its substance and never betrays its composition, even in the most exposed areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis piece holds a precise place among \u003cstrong\u003evintage men’s and women’s watches\u003c\/strong\u003e  : its 34mm diameter and its long Lug-to-lug make it a \u003cstrong\u003evintage dress watch\u003c\/strong\u003e that can be worn equally well by both men and women, in a strictly formal register. The format, long considered too discreet, now corresponds to the dominant demand on the pre-owned market.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike all our \u003cstrong\u003evintage mechanical watches\u003c\/strong\u003e, this one has been opened and inspected by our watchmakers: verification of the calibre and its consistency with the piece, checking of the serial number, examination of the dial, hands, and case. Each \u003cstrong\u003epre-owned Swiss watch\u003c\/strong\u003e we offer comes with an invoice Atelier Victor serving as a certificate, a twelve-month mechanical warranty, and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-collection-occasion-luxe\"\u003eDiscover all our luxury vintage watches\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e→ \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/montres-vintage-1000-2000\"\u003eView our vintage watches from €1,000 to €2,000\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnical specifications\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBrand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Baume \u0026amp; Mercier\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eModel:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dress with bridge lugs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSerial number:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5817••\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEstimated year:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1950s\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/strong\u003e Switzerland\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGender:\u003c\/strong\u003e Men's and women's watch (Unisex)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMovement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hand-wound mechanical, Baume \u0026amp; Mercier signed calibre based on ETA 1080 (17 jewels, 18,000 vph, hacking seconds)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFunctions:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hours, minutes, seconds\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCase:\u003c\/strong\u003e 14-carat gold, round shape, bridge lugs\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDimensions:\u003c\/strong\u003e 34mm (36.5mm with the crown)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug to lug:\u003c\/strong\u003e 43mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThickness:\u003c\/strong\u003e 9mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLug width:\u003c\/strong\u003e 17mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWeight:\u003c\/strong\u003e 28.6 g, complete watch without strap\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrown:\u003c\/strong\u003e Golden, probably original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Silvered, guilloché outer chapter ring with fan motif, applied baton hour markers, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHands:\u003c\/strong\u003e Gold, dauphine shape, original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCrystal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Plexiglass, not original, good condition (7\/10)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrap:\u003c\/strong\u003e White leather, not original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuckle:\u003c\/strong\u003e Steel pin buckle, not original\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCondition and warranty\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOverall condition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Good state of preservation for a piece over seventy years old. The dial is original and has never been refinished: its guilloché remains intact, with a slight patina visible in our photographs. The applied hour markers and dauphine hands are in place. The upper part of the lugs has very likely been re-soldered, a repair visible in grazing light. The rest of the case shows signs of wear consistent with the age of the piece.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater resistance:\u003c\/strong\u003e Not guaranteed (vintage watch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAuthenticity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifetime guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMechanics:\u003c\/strong\u003e Serviced movement, 1-year guarantee\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIncluded:\u003c\/strong\u003e Invoice Atelier Victor, protective case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNot included:\u003c\/strong\u003e Original box and papers\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFrequently asked questions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHave the lugs been subject to any intervention?\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe upper part of the bridge lugs was very likely resoldered during the watch’s lifetime. This is a standard intervention on this type of construction, where the lugs are attached to the case middle: the junction point is subject to stress over time and can be repaired without difficulty by a watchmaker. The soldering is visible in raking light and in our photographs, and the attachment is perfectly functional.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs the caliber a manufacture movement?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eNo, and Baume \u0026amp; Mercier never claimed otherwise: it is an ETA 1080 base, signed in the house’s name. This signature means that the movement was supplied under its own specifications, adjusted and finished for the brand, rather than purchased off the shelf from the catalogue. This was the practice of almost all Geneva houses of the period, including the most prestigious. The ETA 1080 served as the reference architecture for almost all hand-wound movements of the 1950s, and its spare parts remain available, which simplifies servicing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhat is 14-carat gold?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e14-carat gold contains 585 parts per thousand of pure gold, compared with 750 for 18-carat gold. It is harder, and therefore more resistant to scratches, which explains its frequent use for cases intended for daily wear. It is solid gold, not to be confused with gold-plated or gold-filled: no base metal will ever appear in areas of wear. Polishing should nevertheless be considered with restraint, as it removes material and gradually softens the original edges. The stated weight of 28.6 grams corresponds to the complete watch without strap, including the movement, dial and Crystal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs a vintage gold watch a safe purchase?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt is, provided authenticity has been established and the condition is described without reservation, including any interventions. Our watchmakers systematically open the case to verify the caliber, its consistency with the piece and the serial number, and inspect the dial, hands and all components. Every watch sold by Atelier Victor comes with an invoice serving as a certificate of authenticity, a twelve-month mechanical warranty and lifetime guaranteed authenticity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIs this piece suitable for a slim or large wrist?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith a 34mm diameter, 43mm Lug-to-lug and 9mm thickness, it has more presence on the wrist than its diameter might suggest, and suits wrists of approximately 16 to 19cm. Its bridge lugs, which extend the case toward the strap, explain this unusual length. The Lug width measures 17mm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e ","brand":"Baume \u0026 Mercier","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":54581459714385,"sku":"581745","price":1942.5,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0703\/8576\/2597\/files\/VD_05722.jpg?v=1786796282","url":"https:\/\/ateliervictor.co\/en\/products\/baume-mercier-vintage-watch-14k-gold-bridge-lugs-1950s","provider":"Atelier Victor","version":"1.0","type":"link"}